[Ag-eq] Fw: Enquiry "neck-reining"

[Jewel]

I can't think who it was:  Nella perhaps: who asked about teaching a horse to answer to neck rather than direct reining.
I sent the enquiry to  my sister, Gayle, who is experienced in Western riding for instructions, and below, you will find her reply:  not in her own words but just, I think, the sort of info that you asked for.

        Jewel


From: Gayle Blanch 
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2013 8:27 PM
To: Jewel 
Subject: RE: Enquiry "neck-reining"



Hi Jewel I've got here a couple of articles that I think explains a lot about neck reining without the need for pictures.  For myself part of becoming proficient at neck reining starts with, if you've been an english rider is to learn to move off the contact with the bit and learn to ride one-handed and loose - however you can still do it two handed and with a young horse it helps.  I've also always used western bits which can be severe but only if the horse resists and I've found them excellent to get a horse like Lady for instance who for years was ridden in drop nosebands and martingales to try and control her pulling. In a week with a curb bit with release as the reward everytime she stop pulling was the key to start teaching her to neck rein on a loose rein.  


Consistency in using your legs at the same time you ask for the turn  is imperative.  Turning left for instance have your left leg back a bit behind the girth and the right slightly in front. Light touch with that leg and slight more so with the left. You want to have your horse 'curl' around the left leg.  


With a blind rider I imagine having contact with the bit would be more comforting when going for direction etc, however the lighter your contact with the mouth the better.


Anyhoo here are the articles.




Neck Reining Made Simple / by Marcia King
http://www.horsechannel.com/horse-training/horse-neck-reining-69.aspx


Neck reining to a western horse is like a steering wheel is to a car. Without it, you have no control over where you go. It's one of the first fundamentals a western horse learns, and without good neck-reining responses, a horse won't do well in western pleasure, reining, barrel racing or most other western events.


Fortunately, training a horse to neck rein is a simple process — or so says trainer Clark Bradley, and he should know. During his long career, Bradley has brought along hundreds of horses, and he's taken more than a few of those to the top ranks, claiming championships in National Reining Horse Association Futurity classes and at the AQHA Congress in versatility, western pleasure futurity, junior reining, senior reining and team roping.


Getting Started
For the uninitiated, neck reining is the cue that tells the horse which way to turn. Neck reining uses a loose, indirect rein across the horse's neck to encourage the horse to move away from the pressure; both reins are loosely held in one hand, which is positioned above the pommel at about waist level. Explains Bradley, "You give your cue with the pressure of the outside rein against the neck. If you want to go to the right, pick your hand up towards your right shoulder and lay the left rein lightly against the horse's neck. On a finished horse, the true neck rein is a loose rein: There's only pressure against the neck and no pressure with the bit at all." The neck-rein cue should be very light, and the reining hand should never cross an imaginary line from the horse's neck to the rider's shoulder.


Bradley likes to introduce neck reining during a horse's first mounted lesson. He says that since a green horse must be taught steering anyway, neck reining can be incorporated into that process. "The first day you ride a colt, you can ask them to neck rein," he says. "They're not going to respond, but it's a teaching process and it's not complicated."


He usually starts horses in a sidepull for the first few months, then moves up into a D-ring or O-ring snaffle. After about six to 12 months of training, he puts them in a broken-mouth bit, such as a short shank snaffle. Training sessions generally last from 30 to 45 minutes a day, five days a week.


During the first several months of training, Bradley rides with both hands, first asking for the neck rein, then rein-forcing with a direct inside rein. "Too many people forget to neck rein," Bradley warns. "They just pull the nose to the inside and hope the horse turns. They must use the neck-rein cue, first."


He begins by having the horse walk forward. "Then when I want to turn slightly to he right, I'll put the left rein against their neck. Then I shorten the inside rein and actually pull their head to the right. As soon as they respond, I release the pressure." Initially, turns are not large, only about 10 degrees. After obtaining some sort of turn, Bradley rewards with a release, then repeats the lesson a few more times.


The only other aids Bradley uses when teaching neck reining is to keep his legs in the side of the horse to maintain forward motion and to bump the outside elbow with his stirrup or leg to encourage the horse to move his outside shoulder over. "I want the horse's whole body to turn, not just his head. If that doesn't happen, I'll keep pressure on the reins and use the outside leg to make sure that happens."


Once the horse neck reins well in a circle at a walk, responding to either just a neck rein or both reins, Bradley starts to neck rein at a trot. Many horses can move up to the trot stage in just two weeks, he says.


When the horse can trot a figure-eight in 30-foot circles well, with either a neck rein or with two hands, Bradley begins neck reining at the lope. But he cautions riders not to attempt neck-reining lessons at faster gaits until the horse responds fairly consistently in a slower gait. "I like them pretty broke to trotting before I try to lope them," he says. "A lot of people try to lope them the first week, and they don't have enough steering mechanism. They can get in a lot of trouble."


If Bradley has difficulties getting a turn at a lope, he drops down to a trot or a walk, but always makes sure he gets some sort of change of direction before releasing the pressure. "If you neck rein and neck rein, and then decide to forget it, the horse will forget it, too," he warns.


Because neck reining is a simple command, most horses catch on to the basics fairly quickly. "After you ride them about a half dozen times, they'll start to move away from that pressure," Bradley says.


Make No Mistakes
Although neck reining is one of the easiest commands to teach a horse, there are still a few ways in which a rider can go wrong. The most common mistake is when the rider wants to turn, but the horse won't, so the rider pulls one hand farther to the inside. "But the farther your hand goes inside, the more pressure you're putting on the outside rein, which forces the horse's head to turn to the outside," Bradley says. If the horse doesn't turn, make the correction by going to two hands and shortening the inside rein. "Put their nose slightly to the inside and move the horse's shoulder over."


Bradley often sees riders using just one rein to get a turn. "A lot of people, especially when they're riding youngsters, just pull the rein to the right when they want to turn right. Pretty soon the horse just turns his head to the right, but his shoulder is still off to the left, the hips are swung to the left, and they lose the whole body position. You've got to use both reins on the horse to keep his body lined up. The head should be slightly to the right, with the body still going straight. Use more left rein to move the horse's left shoulder over and to keep his body alignment correct. This is important in all stages, but especially in the first few months."


Another problem Bradley observes is busy hands. "A lot of people, when they're just riding along, they're moving their hands all the time, even the advanced riders in the show." This constant hand movement sends conflicting signals that could eventually make the horse immune to neck reining cues.


Some riders also make neck reining for the green horse unnecessarily complicated. "I want to keep it very simple so the horse can understand. A neck rein means to turn. I use my legs to keep the motion or as a correction," says Bradley. The only exception, he notes, is a slight leg cue for the finished horse when performing a spin or a fast lope.


By far the worst mistake a rider can make is inconsistency and not following through. Always insist on getting some sort of turn when you ask, and always reward by releasing. Warns Bradley, "If you continue to pull across their neck and nothing happens, they learn to ignore the pull. Every time the rein touches the side of their neck, you must make them turn slightly, then release the pressure."


>From start to finish, Bradley says that it takes six to eight months to get a horse ready to show in a reining class. "If you're going to a NRHA reining for 3-year-olds, then they usually require 16 to 18 months of training." But by heeding Bradley's advice, neck reining could be one of the easiest commands your horse ever learns.




Article 2
How To Teach Your Horse or Pony To Neck Rein
By Katherine Blocksdorf, About.com Guide


http://horses.about.com/od/horsetraining/ht/howtoneckrein.htm


Being able to neck rein—or steer your horse with one hand is a useful skill. Neck reining makes things like opening gates without dismounting, carrying something, or swishing away flies while trail riding easier. Neck reining is also a fun, safe, and easy thing you can teach your horse even if you are not advanced rider.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: Several days depending on your skill and how quickly your horse learns.
Here's How:


Mount Up
Mount your horse, hold a rein in each hand as normal and start off at a walk. If you are accustomed to riding on contact-always feeling tension on the reins, you will need to slacken your reins slightly. That way when you cue with the rein against the neck you are not accidentally pulling on the bit as well. You want the horse to lead into the turn with his nose, not tip his head to the outside.


Start Guiding Your Horse
Walk in a straight line, then turn a sharp corner of about 90 degrees. As you turn the corner cue with the inside rein, your seat and legs, as usual, but lay the outside rein against the horse’s neck. Lift your hand so the rein makes clear and positive contact against the mid-section of the neck.


Make Consistent Cues
As you come out of the turn return your hands to their normal position. Be careful not to pull on the outside rein that you are laying against the horse's neck as you may confuse him.


Keep Sessions Short
Make many turns, frequently changing directions. Visualize how and where you want to make your turns each time you are on a straightway. Try doing this for about 15 minutes over several days. Several short sessions will be more effective than one long session. Don’t follow the same pattern each time you ride as you might find your horse learns the pattern and ignores the cue of the rein against his neck.


Change the Order of the Cues
After a few sessions, try making the neck-rein cue first, before putting contact on the bit. Release any contact with the bit as soon as the horse starts into the turn, but leave the rein on the neck until you wish to discontinue the turn. If the horse wanders out of the turn, squeeze the inside rein slightly to remind him of the direction. Continue doing this for several more sessions.


Hold the Reins in One Hand
When your horse consistently responds to the neck rein cue, you will no longer need to cue with the inside rein. Hold the reins in one hand. It is traditional to neck-rein with your non-dominant hand. This leaves the dominant hand free to work a lasso or open a gate. However, if you won’t be roping cattle, and encounter few gates you can choose to use which ever hand you please


Be Patient
Be patient with your horse, some are fast learners and some take extra time to learn their lessons. Likewise, you are teaching yourself at the same time. Go slow and take things one step at a time. Once the neck rein cue has been learned and you can turn smoothly you need only practice occasionally.


Tips:


The inside rein guides the horse in the direction you want to go and is called the leading rein. The inside or leading rein on a left turn is the left rein, and on a right turn the inside or leading rein is the right rein.
Whether you are reining with one hand or two, your legs and body are an important part of the cue. Don’t concentrate so hard on your hands, that you forget everything else.
Your horse will likely be more attentive if you work in a fenced ring or an arena. Some horses hate being in a ring though. Work where ever you feel safe and your horse will be most attentive.
Ride with intention. If you are inclined to be vague or day –dreamy your horse will quickly pick up your inattentiveness and inconsistency and not take your commands seriously.
You will want to work in rather sharp corners, rather than gradual or circular turns so that your horse knows you are making a definite turn rather than just vaguely wandering around.
What You Need


Your horse, saddle and bridled—the type of bit does not matter.
A ring, arena, or place where you feel safe, and your horse is attentive.










> From: jewelblanch at kinect.co.nz
> To: gwila47 at hotmail.com
> Subject: Enquiry "neck-reining"
> Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 12:18:52 +1200
> 
> Gayle! I have just joined an email list whose raison d"etre is for blind people who are interested 
> in matters agricultural and equestrian.
> A query has just come through "How do you train a horse to respond neck-reining? Having some 
> experience in thatfield, I thought that you might like to send me words on how it is done and I can 
> then pass on those words.
> 
> Jewel 
>