[nagdu] clicker training

Ann Edie annedie at nycap.rr.com
Mon Feb 18 23:27:28 UTC 2013


Thank you, Julie, for giving a precise, accurate, and concise summary of how
to get started with clicker training with a dog.  The person who is just
starting out on the road of positive-reinforcement-based training will still
want to do more reading on the subject.  But if he/she reads Julie's brief
summary carefully and thoroughly thinks about and puts into action each step
as she describes, he/she will be well launched on the path of clicker
training.

By the way, while it probably works best if you start by using a mechanical
clicker of some type for the beginning clicker lessons, you can soon switch
to a tongue-on-the-top-of-the-mouth click that has the advantage of leaving
both hands free and always being at the ready when you want it.  (It is
generally recognized that the click, either mechanical or tongue-produced,
is more distinct and clearer to the learner than is a word or phrase.)

Best,
Ann

-----Original Message-----
From: nagdu [mailto:nagdu-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of Julie J.
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 1:25 PM
To: NAGDU Mailing List, the National Association of Guide Dog Users
Subject: Re: [nagdu] clicker training

The click is the marker signal that the dog has done what you wanted at that
exact spot, like taking a picture of that precise moment.  Then the click is
followed by a reward.  Usually the reward is food because it's quick,
convenient and most dogs like food.  I always follow click with treat.  If I
want to reduce the reinforcement of a behavior I will reduce the number of
clicks, not the ratio of treats to clicks.

The first thing to do is get the dog to understand that click means treat.
So take the dog into a very quiet place with nothing else going on, maybe a
bedroom or home office.  Click the clicker and give a tiny treat.  A clicker
doesn't have to be an exact clicker from the store, although they are
inexpensive and easily available.  You could use an ink pen that clicks when
you push the end or a mini stapler with no staples or even your tongue
against the roof of your mouth.  The treats should be small, like pencil
eraser sized or pea sized.  If I use a hot dog for treats I'll cut the
single hot dog into 50 to 60 bits.  that's how small you want them.

Okay back to getting the dog to understand that click means treat... so your
in your bedroom with clicker, treats and an interested dog.  Click the
clicker and give a treat, repeat about 10 times.  Now go to a different room
and repeat.  Keep repeating this in different places until the dog starts
anticipating the treat after he hears the click.  
You may very well have the dog touching your hand with the treats or nosing
your pocket.  That's okay right now.  We'll solve that in the next step.
Right now you want a dog who is interested, excited and enthusiastic to play
this new fantastic game.

Step 2 is what a lot of people call dog zen or you get what you want by
ignoring what you want.  Hold a tasty treat in one hand and wait.  
Probably the dog will be nosing your hand, maybe pawing or licking your
hand.  Just wait.  the moment he quits give him a treat.  I give a different
treat from my other hand, but do whatever works for you.  
Repeat this exercise until the dog immediately stops mugging your hand and
waits for the click and treat.  Repeat in various locations with varying
levels of distraction.

Step 3 repeat step 2 but this time have your hand open so the dog can see
the treat.  Close your hand the moment he shows any hint of going for it.
Click and treat when he backs off.  Repeat in lots of different places with
different types of food.

At this point your dog understands the very basics of clicker training that
click means treat and that all good things come to those who wait.  
You can teach most anything from here.  You can get more advanced food
refusal skills with food on the floor or people offering the dog food or
something totally different like fetch.

Things to keep in mind are to click at the first step or hint of the dog
doing what you want.  Don't click for only the perfect finished behavior.
This is called shaping.  It's like the kids game of hot and cold.  The
clicker tells the dog that he's getting hotter or closer to what you want.

When I'm teaching a brand new skill with clicker I don't talk to the dog.  I
let the clicker do the communicating.  A dog who is wise to the clicker game
will be actively mentally engaged with you trying to figure out what to do
to earn the click.  Generally a dog will try everything he has done in the
past to earn a click.  I find that verbally encouraging the dog just slows
down the process.  I want to be clicking every few seconds to keep the dog
engaged and the training progressing.  
If I'm clicking only once every 30 seconds my dogs will start to show signs
of frustration.  Generally this means I have lumped too many steps together.
I need to break the task down into smaller bits, more steps, so the dog can
be successful.

Let's use a person training for a marathon as an example.  A good coach
doesn't tell their student okay now run that 20 miles and we'll throw you a
party at the end.  You'd quit before you ever took your first step.  It's
too big of a task.  If the coach breaks down the marathon into tiny bits
that you can easily do with minimal effort you will be successful.  So maybe
your first step is to walk to the front door.  You can do that, no problem,
click and treat.  Now maybe the next step is to make it to the edge of the
porch. c/t  now the end of the driveway and so on.  If you are at the end of
the driveway and I ask you to run to the grocery store a mile away, you will
probably bawlk.  That's too big of a leap.  Break it down into tiny easily
doable steps.  From the 
driveway the next spot to shoot for might be the corner.   The next 
training session the coach might skip the reward for reaching the front door
and reward you when you get to the edge of the front porch.

I think the two most important things in regard to clicker training are your
timing with the clicker and planning what you are going to teach 
before you start.   It's a lot to absorb in the beginning and it takes a 
bit of work for your dog to understand that click means treat and that he
can get you to click by offering behaviors.  The first couple of times you
use this method it may feel slow, awkward and tedious.  
However the time you invest now will pay you pack tenfold later.  Once you
have a clicker savvy dog and you are comfortable with the method it will
dramatically reduce the amount of time and effort you'll need to train new
things.  I think your dog's attitude toward skills taught with the clicker
will be different, more enthusiastic more willing.

I kinda got carried away there. *smile*  I hope you find it a little useful.
I'd definitely suggest reading more about it.  There are some really awesome
trainers out there doing some extremely advanced things with their dogs
using this method.

Julie


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