[NFB-Blind-Crafters] More on needle felting

[Lana Van Horn]

First, I apologize for spelling errors in my earlier message. I had a 
deadline. Since I usually listen, never actually read the titles, I 
sometimes forget. If you have a BSC2, you can save the sites in 
favorites, even save your best lessons and get to them easily.

A few things to know.

The best kind of wool to get is what they call core wool. It looks like 
a giant ball of yarn, but it is not spun.

It is best because it is usually least expensive, even from the better 
sites, and you want to get good wool..

Try to avoid the mat wool. It comes in large sheets and is harder to use 
when selecting an amount to use.

Core wool comes in a number of colors, but it is best to start with off 
white. If you go to Sarafina, you can find four ounce bundles in off 
white, or, I don't remember, I think four dollars. That will give you 
plenty to start learning on. Later, you can get colors.

There are other kinds of wool available,but the various sites have 
lessons on that.

You will need a mat to protect your work surface from being stabbed by 
the needle. Living Felt has some good ones. Also, if you buy a kit, 
there is usually a small foam mat included, but you will want a larger 
one for more extended use.

You will want at least two  gages of needles. Since it is impossible to 
tell one from another, keep them in the little plastic tubes they come in.

Best gages to start with are 36 or 38 and 40 or 42.

I can't tell the benefits of star, triangle, spiral, or any of the others.

The lower numbered, (larger) gage is for getting started. The smaller is 
for more detailed work, like ears, eyes, and faces.

True needle felters will scream at the way I have dismissed needle 
types, but they can see the different colors at the top ends, which are 
the only ways to tell the needles apart.

If you are just starting, try a 38 triangle.It is a good general purpose 
needle.

You will also need a scuer, or some other long, thin, very smooth stick. 
These are necessary for legs, tails, and such. .

Handling the wool before shaping:

Once you select a section of wool, you will need to prepare it by 
sliding your fingers of both hands up and down the length, smoothing it 
so as to even the piece and getting rid of as much air as possible.This 
makes arriving at smooth firm pieces easier.

Since it is easier to work with smaller pieces, it is often best to 
split the length of wool.

Do this from the center, not the ends.

Work your fingers about half way down the length you have chosen. Work 
your fingers into the center, then, carefully pull them apart.

REmember that whenever you are working with wool in this way, keep all 
fingers close together so you won't separate the wool where you don't 
want to.

Most of the figures you are starting with are two three inches tall. 
Many are sitting or lying down. For the body shape, I like to start with 
anywhere from a six to a nine inch length. You can always add more.

Unfortunately, most tutorials have you measure wool in fractions of 
grams. Who wants to carry a scale around?

Fortunately Sarafina speaks in terms of length. After you have tried a 
few, you will get the idea.

You will be making the animals in parts: A fat cylinder or maybe an egg 
shape for the body, a ball for the main head with a small cylinder, or 
even a little ball for the muzzle, triangles for the ears, and longer 
tubes for the legs and tails.

After you figure all that out, you can start using colors.

Some of the best books on Bookshare are Wool Pets, and Little Needle 
Felted animals. There are a few others, but their descriptions aren't as 
good.

Have fun, and let me know if you have questions.