[NFB-Blind-Crafters] More on needle felting

Wed Jun 10 15:48:01 UTC 2026

I don't use thimbles because I need to keep very close track of where I 
want to stab. Yes. I do prick my fingers from time to time, but not very 
often. I hold the needle pencil-fashion very close to the tip so I can 
be more certain of where I am stabbing.

Those Clover pens, which hold several needles make accuracy difficult, 
and I definitely do prick fingers, so I don't use it.

There is a punch tool which keeps your hand very close to the material 
and you literally can't get your fingers in there. It is very useful for 
flat things like ears and wings.

You are right. Those big balls of wool I was talking about are roving. 
Thing is, lots of different wools come in roving. Some have very long 
strands, so are not suitable in the same way that core wool is.

There are other kinds of wool for giving a finished surface and creating 
hair, even wooly locks for lambs, but that is another conversation.

The thing about leather thimbles is that you need to be able to feel 
every little bump or dent. Some places are softer than others. Points 
need to be accurately made. I don't think I could do it with a thimble.

When attaching things like ears, you have to be right down there where 
you are stabbing. No room for a thimble.

On 6/10/2026 9:29 AM, Dixie via NFB-Blind-Crafters wrote:
> I like the leather thimbles.  I prefer them because they are flexible enough to feel what is going on, yet still protect my fingers from being stabbed by the needle's point.
>
>
>
> Dixie
> 🌷 🌸 🕊️ 🌸 🌷
> See! The winter is past; the rains are over and gone. Flowers appear on the earth; the season of singing has come, the cooing of doves is heard in our land. Song of Songs 2:11-12 (NIV)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: NFB-Blind-Crafters <nfb-blind-crafters-bounces at nfbnet.org> On Behalf Of Tracy Carcione via NFB-Blind-Crafters
> Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2026 7:56 AM
> To: 'List for Blind Crafters and Artists' <nfb-blind-crafters at nfbnet.org>
> Cc: carcione at access.net
> Subject: Re: [NFB-Blind-Crafters] More on needle felting
>
> Hi Lana.
> Thanks for the very thorough description.
> I read a bit about needle felting a few months ago, and what I read recommended a thimble so as not to stab yourself.  Do you use a thimble?  Do you often stab yourself?  Being blind, I use my fingers a lot to tell what's going on, so it seems quite possible to be sticking myself with the needle, though I sew a bit and don't stab myself when I do.
>
> Is the wool you use like roving, which is used for spinning yarn?
> Tracy
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: NFB-Blind-Crafters <nfb-blind-crafters-bounces at nfbnet.org> On Behalf Of Lana Van Horn via NFB-Blind-Crafters
> Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2026 7:00 PM
> To: nfb-blind-crafters at nfbnet.org
> Cc: Lana Van Horn <lana5 at comcast.net>
> Subject: [NFB-Blind-Crafters] More on needle felting
>
> First, I apologize for spelling errors in my earlier message. I had a deadline. Since I usually listen, never actually read the titles, I sometimes forget. If you have a BSC2, you can save the sites in favorites, even save your best lessons and get to them easily.
>
> A few things to know.
>
> The best kind of wool to get is what they call core wool. It looks like a giant ball of yarn, but it is not spun.
>
> It is best because it is usually least expensive, even from the better sites, and you want to get good wool..
>
> Try to avoid the mat wool. It comes in large sheets and is harder to use when selecting an amount to use.
>
> Core wool comes in a number of colors, but it is best to start with off white. If you go to Sarafina, you can find four ounce bundles in off white, or, I don't remember, I think four dollars. That will give you plenty to start learning on. Later, you can get colors.
>
> There are other kinds of wool available,but the various sites have lessons on that.
>
> You will need a mat to protect your work surface from being stabbed by the needle. Living Felt has some good ones. Also, if you buy a kit, there is usually a small foam mat included, but you will want a larger one for more extended use.
>
> You will want at least two  gages of needles. Since it is impossible to tell one from another, keep them in the little plastic tubes they come in.
>
> Best gages to start with are 36 or 38 and 40 or 42.
>
> I can't tell the benefits of star, triangle, spiral, or any of the others.
>
> The lower numbered, (larger) gage is for getting started. The smaller is for more detailed work, like ears, eyes, and faces.
>
> True needle felters will scream at the way I have dismissed needle types, but they can see the different colors at the top ends, which are the only ways to tell the needles apart.
>
> If you are just starting, try a 38 triangle.It is a good general purpose needle.
>
> You will also need a scuer, or some other long, thin, very smooth stick.
> These are necessary for legs, tails, and such. .
>
> Handling the wool before shaping:
>
> Once you select a section of wool, you will need to prepare it by sliding your fingers of both hands up and down the length, smoothing it so as to even the piece and getting rid of as much air as possible.This makes arriving at smooth firm pieces easier.
>
> Since it is easier to work with smaller pieces, it is often best to split the length of wool.
>
> Do this from the center, not the ends.
>
> Work your fingers about half way down the length you have chosen. Work your fingers into the center, then, carefully pull them apart.
>
> REmember that whenever you are working with wool in this way, keep all fingers close together so you won't separate the wool where you don't want to.
>
> Most of the figures you are starting with are two three inches tall.
> Many are sitting or lying down. For the body shape, I like to start with anywhere from a six to a nine inch length. You can always add more.
>
> Unfortunately, most tutorials have you measure wool in fractions of grams. Who wants to carry a scale around?
>
> Fortunately Sarafina speaks in terms of length. After you have tried a few, you will get the idea.
>
> You will be making the animals in parts: A fat cylinder or maybe an egg shape for the body, a ball for the main head with a small cylinder, or even a little ball for the muzzle, triangles for the ears, and longer tubes for the legs and tails.
>
> After you figure all that out, you can start using colors.
>
> Some of the best books on Bookshare are Wool Pets, and Little Needle Felted animals. There are a few others, but their descriptions aren't as good.
>
> Have fun, and let me know if you have questions.
>
>
>
>
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