[Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: More Nifty Knitter loom wrap information

Wed Jan 5 21:09:21 UTC 2011

Cindy,

Thank you for the help, now if I read this a few times maybe my mind will
grasp it, thank you, I will retry this and maybe my hands will get it
finally.

Terry K

-----Original Message-----
From: nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org
[mailto:nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of Zimmer, Cindy
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 3:33 PM
To: List for blind crafters and artists
Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: More Nifty Knitter loom wrap
information

Terry K.
The problem is when you only use half of the loom you do not wrap the last
peg.  When you head back around, bring your yarn from peg 18 and go over to
peg 17 then start wrapping. Each row will be this way because you will
alternate it when you go back around.  Just remember, the last peg that you
wrap, you will NOT knit off because it will only have one piece of yarn on
it.

Cindy Z.

-----Original Message-----
From: nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org
[mailto:nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of Terry Knox
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 1:32 PM
To: 'List for blind crafters and artists'
Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: More Nifty Knitter loom wrap
information

I have tried to follow pattern on Nifty knitter for a pair of baby booties.
It tells me wrap 18 pegs, or half the loom, then wrap back and knit off.
This is my problem, I am having a problem back wrapping I guess. I am
rewrapping last peg or 18 and starting back but it seems difficult in
rewrapping pegs going back and I am not sure I am doing it correct. I also
believe this is directions for flat knitting on round loom. Told you I had a
question and appreciate the help.

Terry K

-----Original Message-----
From: nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org
[mailto:nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of AUDREY WELLNER
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 2:40 AM
To: List for blind crafters and artists
Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: More Nifty Knitter loom wrap
information

Terry K,
   I don't understand what you mean by "backwrapping".  When you wrap your
last peg on the loom your next next row is just a continuation of the wrap
to the left. Wrap clockwise on the last peg while still continuing to the
left where you start the second row (or 3 or row 4) with the same direction
of a clockwise wrap on peg 1 while continuing to the left of the loom. After
you wrap the second row you will stop and knit the row by starting with peg
1 and lifting the bottom or beginning row or "e" wrap over the second row or
"e" wrap. Your working yarn should remain at the last peg to start the "e"
wrap again for the 3rd row traveling across the loom in the same direction.
   Make sure you are there at class Thursday to ask your questions directly
to get a better perspective on everyone's viewpoint of variations.
   Audrey Wellner, Secretary
   Krafters Korner division

--- On Tue, 1/4/11, Terry Knox <tknox6 at sc.rr.com> wrote:

From: Terry Knox <tknox6 at sc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: More Nifty Knitter loom wrap
information
To: "'List for blind crafters and artists'" <nfb-krafters-korner at nfbnet.org>
Date: Tuesday, January 4, 2011, 10:33 AM

Audrey,

Thanks for extra help on Nifty knitter, it helps, I am awaiting Thursday
class to ask more questions. I do not have a problem with correct wrapping I
am going the right way according to your directions, I have a problem with
back wrapping. I understand to keep ladder on inside but need some tips on
rewrapping the last peg to go back as you are now working counter clockwise.

Terry K

-----Original Message-----
From: nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org
[mailto:nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of AUDREY WELLNER
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 6:03 AM
To: List for blind crafters and artists
Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: More Nifty Knitter loom wrap
information

Dixie, Terry and Knifty Knitters,
   I've gone back to look at the original Provo craft instructions that I
used when they first released these looms to the public to refresh my mind
and make sure I haven't been giving the wrong instructions out for many
years.
   Because the original Provo instructions are visual (in a diagram with
arrows) and not written or verbal, the instructions on item #6 below are
incorrect and not written by someone who actually used these looms.
   The visual instructions show the yarn being caught on the outside, tack
or holding peg and brought up straight between the first and last peg. The
first peg (in their instructions) is to the LEFT of the holding peg and the
last peg (in their instructions) is to the right of the holding peg. The
loom should be held flat on your lap or table (until you get more
experienced) with the pegs facing you.  Dixie, I'm not sure I understand
what you mean by the far side and the closer side. I only know that if it's
flat on your lap or table, there's only and inside (through the hole in the
middle) and an outside (around the perimeter) of the frame.
   The "e" wrap (according to Prove instructions) - as you put your yarn
from the holding peg in between peg 1 (to the left of the holding peg) and
the last peg (number will vary according to the size of the frame) you will
now be holding the yarn toward the inside (hole in the middle of the frame).
YOU WORK TOWARD THE LEFT and wrap the thread below the 1st peg and up
between peg 1 and 2 (to the left) and continue all the way around peg 1,
across the bottom of the peg to peg 2 and bring the yarn across the bottom
of peg 2 and up between peg 2 and 3 all the way around the peg 2 to Peg 3.
Continue in this manner until you finish going round all the pegs.
   This places the ladder extensions between each peg on the inside of the
frame. From what I read in the way your wrapping the frame those extensions
are showing up on the outside perimeter of your frame, therefore causing
your hat to come off the frame inside out. Working a straight knit stitch
this wouldn't make much of a difference except when you start incorporating
more advanced stitches then I don't know how they'd come out.
   Well enough said about this I hope. One of the reasons I don't give my
visual perspective. The adaptations can vary but I feel with the particular
wrap you're doing it will lead to problems in the long run. But who am I to
say--whatever works for you. I find the instructions written below aren't
correctly written by someone who has used the frame and was very surprised
when they first appeared on this list without a teacher giving a class.
    Good Luck,
    Audrey Wellner, Secretary
    Krafters Korner division

--- On Mon, 1/3/11, Dixie <blueherons at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: Dixie <blueherons at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: Nifty Knitter information
To: "'List for blind crafters and artists'" <nfb-krafters-korner at nfbnet.org>
Date: Monday, January 3, 2011, 12:41 PM

To add to that, I work on the far side of the loom.  So, when I am working I
am going to the right, wrapping counter-clockwise.   But, if I were to do
the same exact stitch on the closer side of the loom, I would be wrapping
counter-clockwise and moving to the left.  So, it is apparent there are
several orientation points to take into account when working on these Knifty
Knitter looms.

Dixie
~  @-> ~ <-@  ~

-----Original Message-----
From: nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org
[mailto:nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of Zimmer, Cindy
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2011 12:26 PM
To: List for blind crafters and artists
Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: Nifty Knitter information

These were not the directions from me.  It does not matter how one knits off
the loom (you can work clockwise or counter clockwise)  You will get the
same results.  Just make sure you always work in the same fashion.  Terry,
choose where you like your peg 1 to be.  For me, I like to have start with
the peg on the right of the anchor peg and work around that way always going
to my right which would be moving the loom in a clockwise fashion.

Cindy

-----Original Message-----
From: nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org
[mailto:nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of Powers, Terry
(NIH/OD/DEAS) [E]
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 3:51 PM
To: 'List for blind crafters and artists'
Subject: [Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: Nifty Knitter information

Nifty knitters out there?
See item 6.  When we took our class, we wrapped counter clockwize and
knitted counter clockwize.  If you start one peg to the right of the anker
peg, then isn't that an error?
Thinking of embossing those directions.

Terry P.

-----Original Message-----
From: Blindhands at aol.com [mailto:Blindhands at aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 7:50 PM
To: nfb-krafters-korner at nfbnet.org
Subject: [Nfb-krafters-korner] Nifty Knitter information

Basic  Information on loom sizes, number of pegs etc. Provocraft  Knifty
Knitter looms - approx. 3/4" apart from  top of one peg to top of next.
Diameter is measured from top of one peg to  opposite peg on other side of
loom. NOTE: The Green loom pegs are slightly  farther apart than 3/4" and
the yellow loom pegs, slightly  closer.

Blue 24 pegs 4 3/4" diam. - is for  large preemies and small newborns Red
31 pegs - fits children 2 - 5 Green 36 pegs - fits older kids, teens, small
adults Yellow 41 pegs - really  large heads

Making hats  with  Knifty Knitter Looms
Approximately 4 rows  = 1"
Newborn Loom
Brim: 12 rows
Finished brim: 6  rows
Finished hat with brim: 15 rows

Baby  Loom
Brim: 3"
Finished brim:  1.5"
Finished hat  with brim: 6.5" to 7"

Child  Loom
Brim:  4"
Finished brim:  2"
Finished hat  with brim: 7" to 8"

Adult  Loom
Brim 4"  to 5"
Finished  brim: 2" to 2.5"
Finished hat with brim: 8" to  9"

Some Abbreviations and Stitches for Round Loom  Knitting _VIDEOS_
(http://imageevent.com/isela/roundloomstitches)  of how to do purl stitch,
double stitch and more _Purl Stitch_
(http://www.provocraft.com/projects/kniftyknitter/stitch.purl.html)
SS = single  stitch
DS = double  stitch
CBS = chunky braid  stitch
PCS = popcorn  stitch
FS = Flat  Stitch
Single  Stitch
Wrap the yarn  twice around each peg.  Lift one stitch over one to knit.
This is a  looser stitch. (I often use 2 strands of yarn when doing this.)

*  Double Stitch
Wrap each peg 3  times.  Now lift one st over 2 each time. This makes a
tighter stitch than  a plain Single stitch. Chunky  Braid Stitch Wrap pegs
four  times around then knit three wrapped sts over one. (Leaves one st on
the peg  each time.) Next round, wrap with 3 wraps again so you have 4 sts
on the  pegs.  Knit 3 wraps over the one again. Flat  Stitch Wrap  pegs one
time as you normally do. On the second time around, when you normally  wrap,
don't wrap.  You just 'lay' the yarn over each peg around the outside  of
the entire loom.  (This is like I do to remove the sts) Knit sts over  the
yarn that is just flat up against the peg. (not  wrapped) BASIC E-WRAP for
round loom
1) One of the keys is to anchor the yarn in the little thumb tac at the
beginning of your round - I leave a 3" tail of  yarn.
2) WRAPPING THE  PEGS:
Hold  the loom in your hands or lap with the pegs and hole in the middle
facing  you.
3) Wrap LOOSELY (I place my left  thumb near where I am about to wrap each
stitch - see photo#1 below.  I  loosely wrap the peg, and gently push the
yarn/wrap down,  holding the  loosely wraped yarn down until the next peg is
wrapped and then I do the same  with that one.) Go  CLOCKWISE around the
loom  to wrap. The actual peg is actually  wrapped in a counterclockwise
direction- under  and over and around - to form a letter 'e'.  It should
form a cursive  letter 'e' as you wrap each one.
4) Go all around  the loom, wrapping each peg ONE time, with 2 (or 3)
strands of yarn.  Now  you are back at the thumb tac or beginning. (Photo 1
below) (Photo 2 shows  how the wraps should look underneath.)
(1)    (2)  Underneath
5) Start wrapping  around each peg one more  time for single stitch  - go
all around.
***  For a  tighter weave, you can use ONE strand and wrap the pegs 3 times
instead of just twice -  this  gives a tighter 'knit' to the fabric and it's
called DOUBLE STITCH-- prefered  for warmer hats. When you are done wrapping
twice around, anchor the yarn to the tac  by wrapping it around the tac
again so it doesn't all  unravel. You  are ready to knit.

____________________________________

KNITTING:
6) Simply start at  the 1st peg (one to the right of the 'tac' - clockwise
- when the peg tops are  facing you).  Place the hook under the first row of
wrapped yarn, the first  stitch.  Lift it up and over the top yarn wrap on
that peg. VOILA!   One stitch made :-) You will be doing this in a CLOCKWISE

direction to  actually knit.   (I  have left handed friends who knit
counterclockwise)

7) Repeat knitting around the ring.
You have completed  one row of knitting!  Now wrap each peg again once
around loom.   Anchor the yarn on tac and knit another row.  You are now
loom knitting!  Keep wrapping and knitting off.

Standard Stitches
We all have seen it on patterns, stuff  like Garter Stitch, Stockinette,
Ribbing, double Ribbing, but what does it all  mean? If you are new to the
world of loom knitting or knitting in general, these  terms are unknown to
you and as such may make a pattern that is really _simple_
(http://isela.typepad.com/loomknitting/##)  into  something quite confusing.
Let's take a closer look at what they all mean and  how to get them done on
a loom, shall we?
Garter stitch: Garter stitch has one of the best characteristics out there,
it creates  reversible fabric that has a horizontal ridge. Also, Garter
Stitch fabric lays  flat--meaning, it doesn't curl on itself. How to loom
it: it is done the same in  the round (a circular item such as a hat or
sock) as in a flat panel (such as a  scarf or blanket) Row/Round 1:
Knit Row/Round 2: Purl Repeat Row/Round 1 and 2 until you have  reached the
desired length The two rows/rounds make one Garter Stitch Ridge. Some
patterns may tell you to make 20 Garter Stitch ridges which in turn will
mean to work 40 rows/rounds.
Stockinette: nice  and fancy name, it must mean something quite difficult,
actually, you are  probably already doing it each time you loom a hat.
Stockinette refers to the  smooth side of the fabric, the one that has all
the little v's. _Watch_ (http://isela.typepad.com/loomknitting/##)  out,
fabric done completely in stockinette stitch will curl at the edges. How to
loom it: As loom knitters, we are very lucky as we  don't need to do go
through the trouble of purling on the wrong side rows to  make the smooth
fabric. To create stockinette on a loom, it is the same if you  are working
in the round or a flat panel.
Row 1/Round 1: knit
Row 2/Round 2: knit
Repeat Row/Round 1 and 2 until you have  reached the desired length.
Reverse  Stockinette: Simply refers to the opposite of stockinette, instead
of  the nice smooth side, we want the bumpy side to be on the right side of
the  fabric. As in stockinette, Reverse Stockinette also curls on itself, so
plan for  it.
Looming it: To create reverse stockinette  on a loom, it is the same if you
are working in the round or a flat  panel.
Row 1/Round 1: purl
Row 2/Round 2: purl
Repeat Row/Round 1 and 2 until you have  reached the desired length. Lastly,
let's look at ribbing. What  exactly is ribbing and no it is not going to
the local rib _joint_ (http://isela.typepad.com/loomknitting/##)
and  eating until your tummy explodes.
Ribbing: Elastic  and reversible fabric with vertical ridges, mostly seen on
cuffs or hems of  sweaters. There are various types of ribbing, the most
common single and  double.  Single involves 2 stitches, double 4  stitches.

Looming it:
Single: Involves 2  stitches:
Row/Round 1: *k1, p1; rep from *. What  does it mean? Knit 1 peg, purl 1
peg, repeat from * to the end of the row/round. Repeat Row/Round 1 until you
have reached  the desired length.
Double: Involves 4  stitches:
Row/Round 1: *k2, p2; rep from *. What  does it mean? Knit 2 pegs, purl 2
pegs, repeat from * to the end of the  row/round. Repeat Row/Round 1 until
you have reached  the desired length.
Now that we have deciphered what the  terms mean, go and loom something with
them and come back and share with me your  pictures and your loomy
discoveries. Keep on looming!

Joyce  Kane
www.KraftersKorner.org  (http://www.krafterskorner.org/) Blindhands at AOL.com
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