[Nfb-krafters-korner] Sewing a straight or curved line

[slerythema]

Awesome directions, Joyce.

I have a project I am designing right now that will need either machine or
hand sewing. My concern with the machine sewing is that I have never used
our small machine, I won't be using it often so each time will be almost the
first, and I have never been able to sew (or draw) a straight line.

Hmmm, I see another trip to Joann's in the future.

Cindy S.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org 
> [mailto:nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of 
> Blindhands at aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 12:23 PM
> To: nfb-krafters-korner at nfbnet.org
> Subject: [Nfb-krafters-korner] Sewing a straight or curved line
> 
> 
> Now this is how I sew a straight line by hand. 
>  
> I first of all have to use a tape measure or my preference is 
> a hem  ruler. 
>  A hem ruler is 6 inches long, made out of metal, has notches 
> on the  edge 
> of the ruler and then has this metal piece that is attached 
> in the center  
> of the flat ruler part.  This piece of metal fits in the 
> middle slot and is  
> raised up.  Coming out from the sides of the centerred metal 
> piece is kinda  
> like two not quite triangles of metal.  Now I don't have one 
> in my hand so  
> this is pure memory description.  These notches on the side 
> of the ruler  
> are measurements of I think 1/2 inches [might be 1 inche, but 
> I don't think 
> it  is that large].  So if you want to Sew a 1 inche seam you 
> put this center 
>  piece at the 1 inche notch.  It is made to hold it in place 
> at the point  
> you put it.  It is more secure in the notched areas, but it 
> does hold  
> pretty well. 
>  
> Now I always use quilting pins.  They are the ones that have a large  
> plastic head on them, are long just under 2 inches I believe 
> and are really  
> sharp.  So with the hem ruler measure what seam allowance you 
> want or what  you 
> want to sew.  Measure from the straight edge with the 2 
> pieces of  fabric 
> together and matched up eevenly at the edges.  Now measure  
> having  the 
> triangles of the ruler matched up with the edge of the  
> fabric.  Take the pins and 
> pin through both layers of fabric pushing in and  out of the 
> fabric once 
> with the pin.  Use the straight edge of the ruler to  guide 
> your pins.It is 
> maybe 1/2 inche straight edge on the ruler.  Now  continue 
> putting pins along 
> this seam allowance maybe every 3/4 of an  inche.  You will 
> eventually after 
> using this method determine what spacing  is good for you.  
> Once you have 
> your pins in place, they should be  paralell  to the edge of 
> the fabric.  
> Another wise laying in the  direction of your seam, not up 
> and down from the 
> edge.  Now sew along in  the directions of the pins using the 
> pins as your 
> guide in spacing down from the  edges.  If you have spaced 
> them close enough 
> together you can remove the  pins as you approach where they 
> are pinned into 
> the 2 pieces of fabric.
>  
> You can use this same method for sewing in chapes, but sewing 
> curves or  
> circles you will have to use more quilt pins to guide the 
> shape you want to  
> achieve.
>  
> The large pins are easy to remove as you go along and will 
> hold in place  
> the fabric.  They are also nice and sharp and will pearse 
> thru the fabric  
> easily.
>  
> I have a magnetic  pin cushion that you can get at Joann's.  
> It  comes with 
> the long pins with the large plastic heads.  So while you are 
>  sewing if 
> the pin cushion is near enough to you, I kinda toss the pins 
> to the  pin 
> cushion and the magnet is strong enough to grab the pins.  If 
> any pins  drop it 
> is easy enough to pick up the pins with the magnet.  As long 
> as you  don't 
> have an awful lot of pins on this magnet, you can hold it 
> upside down and  the 
> pins will not fall off. 
>  
> Joyce  Kane
> _www.KraftersKorner.org_ (http://www.krafterskorner.org/) 
> Blindhands at AOL.com 
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