[Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: Nifty Knitter information

Fri Nov 4 17:25:19 UTC 2011

I want to add 2 comments to this.
First; I was tought to wrap clock wize around the peg and go around the loom, counter clock wize.

Also, to prevent loosing your working yarn, after learning to wrap and knit, knit off your last stitch and stitch 1, before going around the loom.  This will prevent you from loosing your working yarn and you can stop knitting in the middle of a row.  You never know when a phone call or anything else might interrupt you.

Terry Powers

-----Original Message-----
From: Zimmer, Cindy [mailto:cindy.zimmer at nebraska.gov] 
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 11:07 AM
To: Krafters Korner (nfb-krafters-korner at nfbnet.org)
Subject: [Nfb-krafters-korner] FW: Nifty Knitter information

This information was sent last year.  This might give those of you who are new to the KK some basic information that will help.

Cindy Z.

-----Original Message-----
From: nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org [mailto:nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of Linda Anderson
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 10:43 AM
To: List for blind crafters and artists
Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] Nifty Knitter information

This is really good info. Thanks so much. Linda
----- Original Message -----
From: <Blindhands at aol.com>
To: <nfb-krafters-korner at nfbnet.org>
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 5:49 PM
Subject: [Nfb-krafters-korner] Nifty Knitter information

>
> Basic  Information on loom sizes, number of pegs etc.
> Provocraft  Knifty Knitter looms - approx. 3/4" apart from  top of one peg
> to top of next. Diameter is measured from top of one peg to  opposite peg 
> on
> other side of loom. NOTE: The Green loom pegs are slightly  farther apart
> than 3/4" and the yellow loom pegs, slightly  closer.
>
> Blue 24 pegs 4 3/4" diam. - is for  large preemies and small newborns
> Red  31 pegs - fits children 2 - 5
> Green 36 pegs - fits older kids, teens, small  adults
> Yellow 41 pegs - really  large heads
>
>
> Making hats  with  Knifty Knitter Looms
> Approximately 4 rows  = 1"
> Newborn Loom
> Brim: 12 rows
> Finished brim: 6  rows
> Finished hat with brim: 15 rows
>
> Baby  Loom
> Brim: 3"
> Finished brim:  1.5"
> Finished hat  with brim: 6.5" to 7"
>
> Child  Loom
> Brim:  4"
> Finished brim:  2"
> Finished hat  with brim: 7" to 8"
>
> Adult  Loom
> Brim 4"  to 5"
> Finished  brim: 2" to 2.5"
> Finished hat with brim: 8" to  9"
>
>
> Some Abbreviations and Stitches for Round Loom  Knitting
> _VIDEOS_ (http://imageevent.com/isela/roundloomstitches)  of how to do 
> purl
> stitch, double stitch and more
> _Purl Stitch_
> (http://www.provocraft.com/projects/kniftyknitter/stitch.purl.html)
> SS = single  stitch
> DS = double  stitch
> CBS = chunky braid  stitch
> PCS = popcorn  stitch
> FS = Flat  Stitch
> Single  Stitch
> Wrap the yarn  twice around each peg.  Lift one stitch over one to knit.
> This is a  looser stitch. (I often use 2 strands of yarn when doing this.)
> *  Double Stitch
> Wrap each peg 3  times.  Now lift one st over 2 each time. This makes a
> tighter stitch than  a plain Single stitch.
> Chunky  Braid Stitch
> Wrap pegs four  times around then knit three wrapped sts over one. (Leaves
> one st on the peg  each time.) Next round, wrap with 3 wraps again so you
> have 4 sts on the  pegs.  Knit 3 wraps over the one again.
> Flat  Stitch
> Wrap  pegs one time as you normally do. On the second time around, when 
> you
> normally  wrap, don't wrap.  You just 'lay' the yarn over each peg around
> the outside  of the entire loom.  (This is like I do to remove the sts) 
> Knit
> sts over  the yarn that is just flat up against the peg. (not  wrapped)
> BASIC E-WRAP for  round loom
> 1) One of the keys is to anchor the yarn in the little thumb tac at the
> beginning of your round - I leave a 3" tail of  yarn.
> 2) WRAPPING THE  PEGS:
> Hold  the loom in your hands or lap with the pegs and hole in the middle
> facing  you.
> 3) Wrap LOOSELY (I place my left  thumb near where I am about to wrap each
> stitch - see photo#1 below.  I  loosely wrap the peg, and gently push the
> yarn/wrap down,  holding the  loosely wraped yarn down until the next peg 
> is
> wrapped and then I do the same  with that one.)
> Go  CLOCKWISE around the loom  to wrap. The actual peg is actually 
> wrapped
> in a counterclockwise direction- under  and over and around - to form a
> letter 'e'.  It should form a cursive  letter 'e' as you wrap each one.
> 4) Go all around  the loom, wrapping each peg ONE time, with 2 (or 3)
> strands of yarn.  Now  you are back at the thumb tac or beginning. (Photo 
> 1 below)
> (Photo 2 shows  how the wraps should look underneath.)
> (1)    (2)  Underneath
> 5) Start wrapping  around each peg one more  time for single stitch  - go
> all around.
> ***  For a  tighter weave, you can use ONE strand and wrap the pegs 3
> times instead of just twice -  this  gives a tighter 'knit' to the fabric 
> and
> it's called DOUBLE STITCH-- prefered  for warmer hats.
> When you are done wrapping twice around, anchor the yarn to the tac  by
> wrapping it around the tac again so it doesn't all  unravel.
> You  are ready to knit.
>
>
>
> ____________________________________
>
> KNITTING:
> 6) Simply start at  the 1st peg (one to the right of the 'tac' - clockwise
> - when the peg tops are  facing you).  Place the hook under the first row 
> of
> wrapped yarn, the first  stitch.  Lift it up and over the top yarn wrap on
> that peg. VOILA!   One stitch made :-) You will be doing this in a 
> CLOCKWISE
> direction to  actually knit.   (I  have left handed friends who knit
> counterclockwise)
>
> 7) Repeat knitting around the ring.
> You have completed  one row of knitting!  Now wrap each peg again once
> around loom.   Anchor the yarn on tac and knit another row.  You are now 
> loom
> knitting!  Keep wrapping and knitting off.
>
> Standard Stitches
> We all have seen it on patterns, stuff  like Garter Stitch, Stockinette,
> Ribbing, double Ribbing, but what does it all  mean? If you are new to the
> world of loom knitting or knitting in general, these  terms are unknown to 
> you
> and as such may make a pattern that is really _simple_
> (http://isela.typepad.com/loomknitting/##)  into  something quite 
> confusing. Let's take a closer
> look at what they all mean and  how to get them done on a loom, shall we?
> Garter stitch: Garter stitch has one of the best characteristics out 
> there,
> it creates  reversible fabric that has a horizontal ridge. Also, Garter
> Stitch fabric lays  flat--meaning, it doesn't curl on itself.
> How to loom it: it is done the same in  the round (a circular item such as
> a hat or sock) as in a flat panel (such as a  scarf or blanket)
> Row/Round 1: Knit
> Row/Round 2: Purl
> Repeat Row/Round 1 and 2 until you have  reached the desired length
> The two rows/rounds make one Garter Stitch Ridge. Some patterns may tell
> you to make 20 Garter Stitch ridges which in turn will mean to work 40
> rows/rounds.
> Stockinette: nice  and fancy name, it must mean something quite difficult,
> actually, you are  probably already doing it each time you loom a hat.
> Stockinette refers to the  smooth side of the fabric, the one that has all 
> the
> little v's. _Watch_ (http://isela.typepad.com/loomknitting/##)  out, 
> fabric
> done completely in stockinette stitch will curl at the edges.
> How to loom it:
> As loom knitters, we are very lucky as we  don't need to do go through the
> trouble of purling on the wrong side rows to  make the smooth fabric. To
> create stockinette on a loom, it is the same if you  are working in the 
> round
> or a flat panel.
> Row 1/Round 1: knit
> Row 2/Round 2: knit
> Repeat Row/Round 1 and 2 until you have  reached the desired length.
> Reverse  Stockinette: Simply refers to the opposite of stockinette, 
> instead
> of  the nice smooth side, we want the bumpy side to be on the right side 
> of
> the  fabric. As in stockinette, Reverse Stockinette also curls on itself,
> so plan for  it.
> Looming it: To create reverse stockinette  on a loom, it is the same if 
> you
> are working in the round or a flat  panel.
> Row 1/Round 1: purl
> Row 2/Round 2: purl
> Repeat Row/Round 1 and 2 until you have  reached the desired length.
> Lastly, let's look at ribbing. What  exactly is ribbing and no it is not
> going to the local rib _joint_ (http://isela.typepad.com/loomknitting/##) 
> and
> eating until your tummy explodes.
> Ribbing: Elastic  and reversible fabric with vertical ridges, mostly seen
> on cuffs or hems of  sweaters. There are various types of ribbing, the 
> most
> common single and  double.  Single involves 2 stitches, double 4 
> stitches.
> Looming it:
> Single: Involves 2  stitches:
> Row/Round 1: *k1, p1; rep from *. What  does it mean? Knit 1 peg, purl 1
> peg, repeat from * to the end of the row/round.
> Repeat Row/Round 1 until you have reached  the desired length.
> Double: Involves 4  stitches:
> Row/Round 1: *k2, p2; rep from *. What  does it mean? Knit 2 pegs, purl 2
> pegs, repeat from * to the end of the  row/round.
> Repeat Row/Round 1 until you have reached  the desired length.
> Now that we have deciphered what the  terms mean, go and loom something
> with them and come back and share with me your  pictures and your loomy
> discoveries.
> Keep on looming!
>
>
>
> Joyce  Kane
> www.KraftersKorner.org  (http://www.krafterskorner.org/)
> Blindhands at AOL.com
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