[Nfb-krafters-korner] Plastic canvas

[Powers, Terry (NIH/NCI) [E]]

If the canvas is cut outside the exterior of what you are making, you do not need  any binding.  You want the ability to use the outer bar to connect pieces or to make a nice border.  Plastic canvas, thankfully, does not ravel.  The only way to damage it is to cut into a bar that is needed for the edging or for the project.  It is a nice, ferm, material.  It also comes in different thicknesses, depending on who makes it.

Hope this helps.
Remember, it is not the same as the canvas you use for a latch hook rug.  That, you would use the boarder, cathy is talking about, to edge your work.


Terry P.

-----Original Message-----
From: Cathy via Nfb-krafters-korner [mailto:nfb-krafters-korner at nfbnet.org] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 4:35 PM
To: 'List for blind crafters and artists'
Cc: Cathy
Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] Plastic canvas

Hi Joyce and all,

I tried to learn plastic canvas from Terry and Henry some time ago. I personally found it difficult to feel where the seven squares per inch holes were. So I purchased the five squares per inch. When using these larger squares it is much easier to feel the holes, however you must use bulky or super bulky yarn instead of worsted weight. 
If you do find that you have difficulty learning with the seven squares per inch, the five squares per inch may help you to get the general idea and you can later switch to the smaller holes. 
I believe I purchased my five squares per inch canvas at Michaels or Joann's but can't remember which one. Unfortunately, it does not come in coaster sized squares, so I purchased a large canvas to practice the technique.


The precut seven squares per inch, four inch coaster squares are nice since they have a binding around the edge so there is no way that the canvas will begin to unravel. An alternative is to purchase a large canvas and some binding and sew it onto your canvas once you have pre-cut it.
Cathy F


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