[NFB-Krafters-Korner] another description of majic loop

[Tracy Carcione]

When I do the magic loop, I don't pull my cable loop out at the halfway
point.  I put it somewhere closer to my working needle, so I can go a bit
further before adjusting my needles again.  And I move the loop position
around a bit, so it's not always coming out at the same place, just in
case the loop stretches out the stitches at the point it comes out.
A little experimenting with the basic instructions Terry has here, and
people will find out what works best for their needles and style.
Tracy

>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
>
> 1
>
> Slide the stitches to the right.
>
> They should all be positioned on the cable portion of the circular needle.
>
> 2
>
> Lay the work down on a table in front of you and take a look.
>
> The yarn tail and working yarn should be on the left, and the first
> cast-on
> stitch should be on the right.
>
> 3
>
> Adjust your cast-on edge so that it is not twisted around the needle.
>
> Make sure that the bottom edge of the cast on runs smoothly along the
> cable
> without looping over the needle.
>
> 4
>
> Flip the work over.
>
> The end of the needle with the yarn tail and working yarn should be on the
> right and the end with the first cast-on stitch is on the left.
>
> 5
>
> Count across half of the stitches. Carefully separate the stitches at this
> spot and pull about 6 to 8 inches of the cable through the opening.
>
> Your stitches should be divided in half.
>
> 6
>
> Fold your work in half so that both needle tips are pointing to the right
> and the section containing the first cast-on stitch is in front (facing
> you).
>
> Again check that your cast-on edge is not twisted around the needles.
>
> 7
>
> Position the working yarn so that it runs up from the last cast-on stitch
> to
> the outside of the project.
>
> The working yarn should not pass through the center of the project.
>
> 8
>
> Hold your work in your left hand and slide the front set of stitches to
> the
> right until they are resting on the needle.
>
> Then take the empty back needle in your right hand and bring it into
> position to knit.
>
> 9
>
> Knit into the first stitch on the left-hand needle to join your work.
>
> Then knit across the remaining stitches on the left-hand needle.
>
> Keep your first stitch or two tight to prevent a gap from forming between
> your needles.
>
> 10
>
> Rotate your work.
>
> The set of unworked stitches should now be facing you
>
> 11
>
> Slide the front set of stitches to the right until they are resting on the
> needle. Then slide the back set of stitches to the left so they are
> resting
> on the back portion of the cable.
>
> Always be sure to keep a loop of cable between your two sets of stitches.
> If
> you should lose this loop of cable, simply divide your work in half again
> by
> pulling the cable through the stitches at the appropriate spot.
>
> 12
>
> Using the now-empty back needle, knit across the front set of stitches.
>
> Remember to keep the first stitch tight.
>
> When you reach the end of these stitches, you will have worked one
> complete
> round. Note the presence of your yarn tail, which indicates where your new
> round begins.
>
> 13
>
> Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of your round if desired.
>
> Although your yarn tail will always help you identify the end of the
> round,
> it becomes harder to spot as you knit more rounds and the tail gets
> farther
> away from the needles. It is therefore a good idea to use a stitch marker
> to
> more clearly indicate the end of the round. You can insert a locking or
> split-ring marker directly into the last stitch of the round and move it
> up
> every 20 rounds or so as needed. If you wish to use a solid-ring marker,
> place it before the last stitch of the round to keep it from falling off.
>
> 14
>
> Stop and check again that your work is not twisted.
>
> Verify that the cast on runs smoothly along the bottom edge of your work
> and
> does not loop over the needles at any point.
>
> 15
>
> Rotate your work again so that the stitches you are going to work next are
> facing you, slide the front stitches onto the needle tip and the back
> stitches onto the cable, and work across the front set of stitches.
>
> Continue on in this manner, rotating your work and arranging your
> stitches,
> after you have worked each side.
>
> Make sure that you are knitting around the outside of the tube you are
> creating. The right (knit) side should be to the outside and the wrong
>
> (purl) side to the inside. To correct this, just turn your work right-side
> out and begin working around the outside of the tube.  My
>
> note:  When it is time to rotate my stitches, I rotate counterclockwise.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> 16
>
> When your project has reached the desired length, bind off.
>
> The greatest benefit to the magic loop method is that you can knit many
> different circumferences with one long needle. This eliminates the need to
> buy needles in different lengths; one 40-inch circular needle can replace
> a
> 16-, 24-, and sometimes even a 32-inch needle for many knitting projects.
>
> Knitting in the Round: Circular Knitting Basics
>
>
>
> Vickie
>
>
>
> Terry Powers
>
>
>
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