[Sportsandrec] Bike trainers

[Ron & the bears]

Kelly wrote, "I have a magnetic trainer I use to calculate power output on 
(in watts); calculations I couldn't perform on a fluid trainer (for some 
reason the resistance profile of most trainers is some sort of corporate 
secret, but I could get the numbers for a magnetic trainer through testing 
in the university's biomechanics lab)."

Ron replies, Wow, I thought I'd never repeat this factoid. The Kurt Kenetic 
Road Machine that I speak so highly of has a resistance curve that is 
completely predictable. In fact, their website mentioned a cyclometer that 
would estimate the wattage generated based on the resistance being so 
consistent. If you ever need more information, I have contacts with Kurt 
Kinetics.

Kelly wrote, "I don't personally like to put my tandem in the trainer, 
unless I'm doing a tune up. The longer bike has greater leverage on the 
mounting brackets, and I find there is more wobble in the set up than I am 
comfortable with. I also worry about the stress it places on the rear hanger 
of the frame and how its supported.

Ron replies, I agree with your thinking, and generally use my single on the 
trainer, because of limited space, but it is doable with the tandem. I 
recommend the front wheel cradle that a lot of manufacturers offer for 
indoor riding. I used to just use a phone book to raise up the front of the 
bike to match the level of the rear wheel on the trainer. The $20 option 
really makes the bike feel more stable. Many offer variable heights as well. 
So, you can raise the front of your bike to simulate climbing hills, which 
use different core muscles.

Also, Co-Motion and Santana do not mind using their tandems on a trainer. 
Even on my single bike, I always straddle the bike and then step up on the 
pedal to get up on to the saddle. This way, my body weight is always 
directly over the frame. There is minimum torsional stress on the bike this 
way.

Kelly wrote, "The advantage of the trainer is that you can put your 
heaviest, steel framed bike with your least efficient rims, and only a 
moderate drive train; things like weight and aerodynamic efficiency are not 
an issue.

Ron replies, Kelly, I agree with you here. However, I always end up with a 
bike that I really like and would prefer to ride on the road if I could only 
see enough to do so. I guess I am a bit of a zealot on this issue. I am a 
tinkerer and like technological designs that are just off the front burner. 
Also, the way the bike fits me is the main thing, especially for indoor 
riding.

Kelly wrote, ": I've used a couple less expensive trainers, and how much you 
want to spend should depend on how much time you will spend on it. I've worn 
out a few less expensive trainers, but put thousands of miles a year on my 
Fluid Ops II without a problem. My only complaint about the fluid trainers 
is when I put an old TT bike in it and crank on the tallest gear ratio where 
I can get the dampener to cavitate and lose resistance at top speed (where 
the fluid turbulence gets so great it loses resistance).

Ron replies, When I rode the Cycle-Ops Fluid 2, I, also felt the resistance 
level off at high intensity efforts. For me, it felt like pedaling through 
mud. I did not like that feeling at all. It was like my cranks felt like 
they were made of soft plastic. I have never felt that syndrome on the Kurt 
Kinetic. It seems to be able to handle all that I can give it, while still 
feeling natural.

Another point that came to mind was perhaps the tire was slipping on the 
resistance roller? I am real sensitive to this and try to avoid it. Some 
people talk about wearing out tires more quickly on their trainers. I do not 
seem to have that problem. Perhaps it is because I am certain to have a 
positive connection between the tire and resistance roller.

Best,

Ron & the healthy discussion bears
Austin, TX 



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