[Ag-eq] Article on feeding horses

[nfoster at extremezone.com]

Tracy:

Thanks so much for sharing this article.  I'm always trying to learn more about
equine nutrition, especially since I have a 30 year old mule to keep healthy.. 
We don't have pasture here, so I have to depend on hay, grains and supplements
to balance their diet.

How are things with you?

Do you live in the area where it has been so cold and do you have snow?

It's been perfect here, 65 to 70 during the day and about 40 at night.

The list has been quiet, hopefully some conversations will get going.

Take care.

Nella






Quoting Tracy Carcione <carcione at access.net>:

> I saw this article in with my horse racing news, and thought some of you
> might find it interesting.
>
> It comes from a site/magazine called The Horse, which seems to focus on
> horse health.
>
> Practical Horse Feeding for Adult Horses
> By Alayne9 Jan 2014
> Leave a Comment About?RSS?Share
> Avoid over or under feeding by always weighing hay (and grain). Feeding by
> eye or the scoop is not accurate and wastes feed and money.
>
> Photo: Alayne Blickle, Horses for Clean Water, 2013
>
> While you should always consult your veterinarian for the feeding program
> best for your horse(s), here are some basic guidelines to help you begin
> structuring your feeds and feeding program.
>
>  Horses' diets require six essential components:
>
> 1.Energy: Grain and hay (especially alfalfa hay) provide energy. Hard
> working horses, such as performance horses, need more energy.
> 2.Protein: Hay, especially alfalfa hay, is a good source of protein. Young
> horses (usually up to 3 years of age) and pregnant and lactating mares
> require more protein.
> 3.Vitamins: Requirement.
> 4.Minerals: Requirement.  A selenium supplement is necessary in the Pacific
> Northwest and other parts of North America. Check with your veterinarian for
> their recommendation.
> 5.Water: Essential at all times. Horses drink between 8 to 15 gallons per
> day.
> 6.Fiber: Hay or pasture. Fiber (also called roughage) is essential for
> proper gut motility and digestion in the horse.  This should be the mainstay
> of your feeding program.
> Putting It All Together
>
> Pasture: Good pasture contains all of the above, with the exception of
> selenium. If possible, let your horse graze at least part of the day.
> However, too much pasture can cause serious problems for some horses while
> others may need supplemental feed in addition to pasture. Consult your
> veterinarian before turning your horse out to graze. For pasture management
> advice contact your local conservation district.
>
> Hay: Hay can replace pasture or supplement a poor pasture. A good rule of
> thumb for feeding hay is 2% of a horse's body weight in hay, 20 lbs. of hay
> for an "average" 1,000 lb. horse. Alfalfa hay has a higher protein and
> energy count, but for most horses grass hay or a mix of grass and alfalfa
> would be best. Always purchase green, leafy hay, free of dust and mold.
> Consult your veterinarian for questions on which hay would be better for
> your horse.
>
> Grain: Grain is not necessary for most horses. Horses in training or those
> who cannot maintain their weight may need grain to give them extra energy.
> Oats or COB (a mix of corn, oats and barley) are most commonly fed. A small
> amount of grain (1/4 cup) is often used to "top dress" vitamins.
>
> Salt: A free-choice, white salt block (without any other added vitamins)
> salt block should be provided.
>
> Selenium: Consult your veterinarian to see if you live in a selenium
> deficient area. Selenium should be supplemented to all horses in the Pacific
> Northwest. LMF Super Suplement, Horse Guard, Dynamite and Northwest
> Supplement are examples of supplements containing adequate amounts of
> selenium. Pure selenium is also available from your veterinarian.
>
> Water: Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. In cold weather
> be sure that your horse's water is not frozen or too cold or they may not
> drink an adequate amount.
>
> Keep in mind: All hay and grain should be weighed on a daily basis. Store
> feed where horses cannot accidentally get into it and consume amounts
> dangerous to their health. Feed horses in a manger or on the stall floor. It
> is most natural for horses to eat with their head lowered to help with
> clearing their respiratory system. Feeding on sand or muddy ground can lead
> to ingestion of dirt causing serious digestion problems. A horse should
> never be fed hay or grain which is moldy, dusty, weedy or contains foreign
> objects. Horses should be fed a minimum of twice a day--three times a day is
> better.
>
> Evaluating a moderate body condition: To determine if your horse is in good
> body weight, your horse's coat should be shiny. Eyes should be bright and
> alert. Ribs can be felt just beneath the coat. Backbone or hipbones should
> not protrude.
>
> Keeping warm in winter: A couple extra pounds of hay fed on extremely cold
> nights is the best heat source you can provide your horse. Body heat
> generated by eating and digesting fiber and forage helps keep your horse
> warm.
>
> Final note: One final cost-saving suggestion; avoid over or under feeding by
> always weighing hay (and grain)! Feeding by eye or scoop is not accurate and
> wastes feed--and money.
>
> Happy feeding!
>
> Alayne
>
>
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