[Ag-eq] Article on feeding horses
Tracy Carcione
carcione at access.net
Sun Jan 12 18:26:54 UTC 2014
I saw this article in with my horse racing news, and thought some of you
might find it interesting.
It comes from a site/magazine called The Horse, which seems to focus on
horse health.
Practical Horse Feeding for Adult Horses
By Alayne9 Jan 2014
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Avoid over or under feeding by always weighing hay (and grain). Feeding by
eye or the scoop is not accurate and wastes feed and money.
Photo: Alayne Blickle, Horses for Clean Water, 2013
While you should always consult your veterinarian for the feeding program
best for your horse(s), here are some basic guidelines to help you begin
structuring your feeds and feeding program.
Horses' diets require six essential components:
1.Energy: Grain and hay (especially alfalfa hay) provide energy. Hard
working horses, such as performance horses, need more energy.
2.Protein: Hay, especially alfalfa hay, is a good source of protein. Young
horses (usually up to 3 years of age) and pregnant and lactating mares
require more protein.
3.Vitamins: Requirement.
4.Minerals: Requirement. A selenium supplement is necessary in the Pacific
Northwest and other parts of North America. Check with your veterinarian for
their recommendation.
5.Water: Essential at all times. Horses drink between 8 to 15 gallons per
day.
6.Fiber: Hay or pasture. Fiber (also called roughage) is essential for
proper gut motility and digestion in the horse. This should be the mainstay
of your feeding program.
Putting It All Together
Pasture: Good pasture contains all of the above, with the exception of
selenium. If possible, let your horse graze at least part of the day.
However, too much pasture can cause serious problems for some horses while
others may need supplemental feed in addition to pasture. Consult your
veterinarian before turning your horse out to graze. For pasture management
advice contact your local conservation district.
Hay: Hay can replace pasture or supplement a poor pasture. A good rule of
thumb for feeding hay is 2% of a horse's body weight in hay, 20 lbs. of hay
for an "average" 1,000 lb. horse. Alfalfa hay has a higher protein and
energy count, but for most horses grass hay or a mix of grass and alfalfa
would be best. Always purchase green, leafy hay, free of dust and mold.
Consult your veterinarian for questions on which hay would be better for
your horse.
Grain: Grain is not necessary for most horses. Horses in training or those
who cannot maintain their weight may need grain to give them extra energy.
Oats or COB (a mix of corn, oats and barley) are most commonly fed. A small
amount of grain (1/4 cup) is often used to "top dress" vitamins.
Salt: A free-choice, white salt block (without any other added vitamins)
salt block should be provided.
Selenium: Consult your veterinarian to see if you live in a selenium
deficient area. Selenium should be supplemented to all horses in the Pacific
Northwest. LMF Super Suplement, Horse Guard, Dynamite and Northwest
Supplement are examples of supplements containing adequate amounts of
selenium. Pure selenium is also available from your veterinarian.
Water: Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. In cold weather
be sure that your horse's water is not frozen or too cold or they may not
drink an adequate amount.
Keep in mind: All hay and grain should be weighed on a daily basis. Store
feed where horses cannot accidentally get into it and consume amounts
dangerous to their health. Feed horses in a manger or on the stall floor. It
is most natural for horses to eat with their head lowered to help with
clearing their respiratory system. Feeding on sand or muddy ground can lead
to ingestion of dirt causing serious digestion problems. A horse should
never be fed hay or grain which is moldy, dusty, weedy or contains foreign
objects. Horses should be fed a minimum of twice a day--three times a day is
better.
Evaluating a moderate body condition: To determine if your horse is in good
body weight, your horse's coat should be shiny. Eyes should be bright and
alert. Ribs can be felt just beneath the coat. Backbone or hipbones should
not protrude.
Keeping warm in winter: A couple extra pounds of hay fed on extremely cold
nights is the best heat source you can provide your horse. Body heat
generated by eating and digesting fiber and forage helps keep your horse
warm.
Final note: One final cost-saving suggestion; avoid over or under feeding by
always weighing hay (and grain)! Feeding by eye or scoop is not accurate and
wastes feed--and money.
Happy feeding!
Alayne
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