[nagdu] Fwd: [Juno-l] Message from Graham Buck

Nicole Torcolini ntorcolini at wavecable.com
Tue Aug 6 01:14:01 UTC 2013


I don't know how Lexia's is now, but it was really good when I got her. At
GDB, they put dog food on the ground. At one point, the trainer who was
working with me told me that Lexia was zigzagging back and forth because she
was weaving in between the dog food as though it was a mine field.

-----Original Message-----
From: nagdu [mailto:nagdu-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of Marsha Drenth
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 5:29 PM
To: NAGDU Mailing List,the National Association of Guide Dog Users
Subject: Re: [nagdu] Fwd: [Juno-l] Message from Graham Buck

thanks buddy for posting this. Even though my lab at this point does not
have issues with food, or grabbing food. I might work on this. I would be
interested to hear from the owner trainers, if they use a similar method of
teaching food refusal with their dogs? 





Marsha drenth
Sent with my IPhone 

On Aug 5, 2013, at 1:00 PM, Buddy Brannan <buddy at brannan.name> wrote:

> Fantastic message from one of the trainers at Guiding Eyes. Informational
purposes, blah blah, no affiliation, blah blah blah.
> --
> Buddy Brannan, KB5ELV - Erie, PA
> Phone: (814) 860-3194 or 888-75-BUDDY
> 
> 
> 
> Begin forwarded message:
> 
>> From: Becky Barnes <bbarnes at guidingeyes.org>
>> Subject: [Juno-l] Message from Graham Buck
>> Date: August 5, 2013 at 11:10:50 AM EDT
>> To: Juno-L <Juno-l at lists.screenreview.org>
>> 
>> Scavenging issues
>> 
>> Can be one of the more difficult areas to deal with at times with guides.
They often will eye food under a table or on the floor.  Then usually when
you start to move again, get up etc. the dog lunges and dives for the food.
Initially the dog may not attempt to go for it but then when it realizes its
moving away they make a quick approach to scoop it up. Many dogs seem to
time the window between being successful with receiving the correction. They
end up being corrected but it doesn't really change their behavior because
they already got the food.  
>> 
>> Some patterning lessons help but they often don't hold once the game has
ended. Negative reinforcement has to be done with a strong association to
the food. Ultimately we want the dog to go into enough avoidance where they
stay clear of the food and can then get reinforced for other things like
going forward or getting to a curb. 
>> 
>> I would do the set up in this way. A couple of reps. With using leave it
while food  is nearby but not reachable. Then move a bit closer. This time
anytime the dog strains on the leash it is corrected. Start to preface it
with leave it. If the dog yields to the collar pressure, orients back to the
handler then praise.
>> 
>> The next step is to try the same thing but be right at the food. If you
have a sighted friend to help that would be useful for this part.  If the
dog still attempts to go for the food the correction level is raised. The
sighted person can quickly place their foot over the food before the dog
gets it. Always remember this is a non negotiable area so you can go to a
higher level correction. It's not like guide work where we are always going
to ask the dog to get us to something. 
>> 
>> The next step is to spread food all over a large space on the floor. Use
something inexpensive like crackers or bread.  You can try other foods
later. Now walk back and forth with the dog saying leave it at first. Then
say nothing and walk back and forth. Be ready to give a high level
correction. Once you can walk through and you can clearly feel the dog
moving away from the food then the dog has gone into avoidance. Now it will
be easier to reward the dog for good behavior. 
>> 
>> Next step would be the same scenario but instead work the dog in harness
between two targets. Back and forth.  You may feel the dog go off course a
bit to step around the food but we can accept that because we can turn that
response down a bit in the real life scenarios. 
>> 
>> Another alternate set up system is to use flat tipper ware containers.
The ones that glad makes are good. They are not expensive and are light
weight. Punch or cut small holes in the containers.  Fill with food  of
choice. This works well for more desirable morsels.  Do the exercises in the
same way. Work up to taking the lids off.  
>> 
>> I would suggest practicing at least once or twice a week to be sure you
have the response.   We are trying to create enough avoidance without
shutting the dog down.  With that said if you nag the dog or pull the dog
away it will just create more resistance and actually build drive to get to
the food.   Anytime you stop to chat with someone put the dog in a down or
sit. This will let that dog know that you don't need it for anything right
now and frees you up to talk. Eventually as the dog improves you can have
the dog be out of a control position. For example just standing or hanging
near you but not straining on the collar. 
>> 
>> This part of training must be very clear to the dog or else the poor
behaviors will continue.  Hope this is useful to folks. 
>> 
>> Graham
>> 
>> Becky Barnes Davidson
>> Manager, Consumer Outreach * Graduate Support Guiding Eyes for the 
>> Blind 914-243-2210
>> 800-942-0149 ex. 2210
>> bbarnes at guidingeyes.org
>> www.guidingeyes.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> Juno-l mailing list
>> Juno-l at lists.screenreview.org
>> http://lists.screenreview.org/listinfo.cgi/juno-l-screenreview.org
>> Juno-l  is A  supportive  communications forum for  Guide Dog  users, 
>> and  Puppy Raisers.  Founded and supported by  Guiding Eyes for the Blind
Graduates.
> 
> 
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