[nagdu] Fwd: [Juno-l] Message from Graham Buck

Tue Aug 6 13:45:38 UTC 2013

Marsha,

The method I use for food refusal is sort of like this, but instead of all 
those corrections, I teach the dog that if he ignores the food on the ground 
he can get better things from me.   I don't want my dog to be afraid or 
anxious around food.  I want him to look to me for direction and rewards for 
his ignoring the stray food.

The method I use is generally referred to as doggie Zen.  Or you get what 
you want by ignoring what you want, thus the Zen reference.

HTH
Julie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Marsha Drenth
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 7:29 PM
To: NAGDU Mailing List,the National Association of Guide Dog Users
Subject: Re: [nagdu] Fwd: [Juno-l] Message from Graham Buck

thanks buddy for posting this. Even though my lab at this point does not 
have issues with food, or grabbing food. I might work on this. I would be 
interested to hear from the owner trainers, if they use a similar method of 
teaching food refusal with their dogs?

Marsha drenth
Sent with my IPhone

On Aug 5, 2013, at 1:00 PM, Buddy Brannan <buddy at brannan.name> wrote:

> Fantastic message from one of the trainers at Guiding Eyes. Informational 
> purposes, blah blah, no affiliation, blah blah blah.
> --
> Buddy Brannan, KB5ELV - Erie, PA
> Phone: (814) 860-3194 or 888-75-BUDDY
>
>
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> From: Becky Barnes <bbarnes at guidingeyes.org>
>> Subject: [Juno-l] Message from Graham Buck
>> Date: August 5, 2013 at 11:10:50 AM EDT
>> To: Juno-L <Juno-l at lists.screenreview.org>
>>
>> Scavenging issues
>>
>> Can be one of the more difficult areas to deal with at times with guides. 
>> They often will eye food under a table or on the floor.  Then usually 
>> when you start to move again, get up etc. the dog lunges and dives for 
>> the food. Initially the dog may not attempt to go for it but then when it 
>> realizes its moving away they make a quick approach to scoop it up. Many 
>> dogs seem to time the window between being successful with receiving the 
>> correction. They end up being corrected but it doesn't really change 
>> their behavior because they already got the food.
>>
>> Some patterning lessons help but they often don't hold once the game has 
>> ended. Negative reinforcement has to be done with a strong association to 
>> the food. Ultimately we want the dog to go into enough avoidance where 
>> they stay clear of the food and can then get reinforced for other things 
>> like going forward or getting to a curb.
>>
>> I would do the set up in this way. A couple of reps. With using leave it 
>> while food  is nearby but not reachable. Then move a bit closer. This 
>> time anytime the dog strains on the leash it is corrected. Start to 
>> preface it with leave it. If the dog yields to the collar pressure, 
>> orients back to the handler then praise.
>>
>> The next step is to try the same thing but be right at the food. If you 
>> have a sighted friend to help that would be useful for this part.  If the 
>> dog still attempts to go for the food the correction level is raised. The 
>> sighted person can quickly place their foot over the food before the dog 
>> gets it. Always remember this is a non negotiable area so you can go to a 
>> higher level correction. It's not like guide work where we are always 
>> going to ask the dog to get us to something.
>>
>> The next step is to spread food all over a large space on the floor. Use 
>> something inexpensive like crackers or bread.  You can try other foods 
>> later. Now walk back and forth with the dog saying leave it at first. 
>> Then say nothing and walk back and forth. Be ready to give a high level 
>> correction. Once you can walk through and you can clearly feel the dog 
>> moving away from the food then the dog has gone into avoidance. Now it 
>> will be easier to reward the dog for good behavior.
>>
>> Next step would be the same scenario but instead work the dog in harness 
>> between two targets. Back and forth.  You may feel the dog go off course 
>> a bit to step around the food but we can accept that because we can turn 
>> that response down a bit in the real life scenarios.
>>
>> Another alternate set up system is to use flat tipper ware containers. 
>> The ones that glad makes are good. They are not expensive and are light 
>> weight. Punch or cut small holes in the containers.  Fill with food  of 
>> choice. This works well for more desirable morsels.  Do the exercises in 
>> the same way. Work up to taking the lids off.
>>
>> I would suggest practicing at least once or twice a week to be sure you 
>> have the response.   We are trying to create enough avoidance without 
>> shutting the dog down.  With that said if you nag the dog or pull the dog 
>> away it will just create more resistance and actually build drive to get 
>> to the food.   Anytime you stop to chat with someone put the dog in a 
>> down or sit. This will let that dog know that you don't need it for 
>> anything right now and frees you up to talk. Eventually as the dog 
>> improves you can have the dog be out of a control position. For example 
>> just standing or hanging near you but not straining on the collar.
>>
>> This part of training must be very clear to the dog or else the poor 
>> behaviors will continue.  Hope this is useful to folks.
>>
>> Graham
>>
>> Becky Barnes Davidson
>> Manager, Consumer Outreach * Graduate Support
>> Guiding Eyes for the Blind
>> 914-243-2210
>> 800-942-0149 ex. 2210
>> bbarnes at guidingeyes.org
>> www.guidingeyes.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> Juno-l mailing list
>> Juno-l at lists.screenreview.org
>> http://lists.screenreview.org/listinfo.cgi/juno-l-screenreview.org
>> Juno-l  is A  supportive  communications forum for  Guide Dog  users, and 
>> Puppy
>> Raisers.  Founded and supported by  Guiding Eyes for the Blind 
>> Graduates.
>
>
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