[nagdu] Scavenging and Sniffing

Wed Oct 9 16:01:34 UTC 2013

Oh, I forgot.
For food distractions, what might also work is if your dog knows the
"touch" or "look" cue. If your dog already knows this, or even if you
teach it to your dog, it can be a valuable cue around distractions.
Hold out your fist and cue your dog, when they bump their nose to your
fist and focus their attention on you, reward them.
Also, using the Halti, or head collar, until your dog reliably
performs the "leave it" cue is a good idea.

On 10/9/13, Raven Tolliver <ravend729 at gmail.com> wrote:
> I think I've said this awhile ago on this list or another, but I
> really think schools should incorporate the "leave it" cue into the
> obedience routines. In my opinion, practicing "leave it" is just as
> important as practicing the "sit-stay" and "down-stay."
> There are two ways I will discuss that you can use to curb this
> behavior. One of them involves using leash corrections, the other does
> not. I am all about positive training methods, so I always use and
> highly recommend the method without leash corrections, but I like to
> offer comprehensive advice since every dog/handler team is not the
> same.
> For the first method, choose an area with no distractions, preferably
> somewhere in your home or wherever you live. Be sure to have your
> clicker in hand, and treats nearby, or a toy if you don't use treats.
> Start by holding food in your fist. Hold your fist out or down on the
> floor. Your dog will of course sniff and paw at your hand. The moment
> your dog stops, click and treat. Obviously, treat your dog with
> something other than what is in your fist, preferably a high-value
> treat. Do this 3 to five times, then start introducing the cue "leave
> it" as soon as your dog stops going after the food in your fist. So
> the moment your dog ignores the food, say "leave it," then give a food
> reward.
> When your dog starts obeying the cue reliably, which would be about 8
> or 9 times out of 10, progress to putting food on the floor or table
> and cover it with your hand. Again, your dog will start sniffing and
> pawing at your hand, so repeat the same process you used when the food
> was in your fist.
> When your dog is reliably obeying the "leave it" cue in this
> situation, progress to putting food on the ground five to seven feet
> in front of you and your dog. The food can be people food such as
> peanuts or fruit or whatever. Have your dog on a short leash, and
> start heeling your dog toward the food. The moment your dog tries to
> go for it, stop moving toward the food. When your dog stops trying to
> pull or go for the food, praise and reward. Again, do this several
> times until the behavior is reliable. Now you progress by simply
> moving the food closer and closer to your dog until you can have the
> food right in front of your dog, in their line of sight, and they
> don't go for it, or quickly obey the "leave it" cue if they do.
> If at any time, your dog is not obeying the "leave it" cue reliably or
> will not ignore the food for an offered treat or toy, go back to the
> previous step.
> If you use a toy during your training  sessions rather than food,
> allow the dog to play with the toy for a bit. Then resume training.
> Take this practice to a different room, then to the back or front
> yard, practice it when your out at the park, or at a restaurant.
> This might seem like a lot, and it might take a long time depending on
> the dog, but it will work if you stay on top of it and are consistent.
> This positive method is all about allowing your dog to make a choice,
> and teaching them that obeying you is the right choice and that good
> things will come when they do obey you. This should not involve any
> pressure or frustration toward your dog. If it starts feeling
> frustrating, then it is time to stop. Your dog will pick up on the
> frustration, and you don't want frustration associated with the "leave
> it" cue. You want your dog to associate it with positive things such
> as praise, play, or treats.
> The more punishment-oriented solution is to do these same practice
> sessions, except you give a leash correction if the dog goes for food.
> A leash correction has to be delivered as soon as the dog initiates
> the behavior, not after the behavior has been done. Correcting with
> the leash for going after food will create a negative association with
> this behavior, and it may or may not extinct the behavior. Some dogs
> need a harsher punishment than others.
> I train dogs using the positive method, so I know that it works from
> personal experience. If anything was confusing, feel free to ask
> questions. This is such a routine thing for me that it was really hard
> to sit here and break it down into written steps.
>
>
> On 10/9/13, Larry D. Keeler <lkeeler at comcast.net> wrote:
>> Keepping on correcting! All dogs are somewhat nosy! If lots of dogs
>> frequent
>>
>> the area you might have a tough time! You can also call Leader for other
>> ideas!
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Alyssa" <alyssahenson95 at gmail.com>
>> To: <nagdu at nfbnet.org>
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2013 9:58 AM
>> Subject: [nagdu] Scavenging and Sniffing
>>
>>
>>> Hello all! I got my dog Sophie from Leader Dogs in July. She is my first
>>> dog and I'm having problems with her nose always being on the ground.
>>> She
>>>
>>> does great work, but if she sees something on the ground, she dives for
>>> it
>>>
>>> and won't listen to me even with leash corrections until they've been
>>> done
>>>
>>> at least 3 times. Is this normal for a new dog? Is there something I
>>> should do differently?
>>> Thanks
>>> Alyssa and Sophie
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>>
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>
>
> --
> Raven
>

-- 
Raven