[nagdu] Scavenging and Sniffing

Toni Whaley blind_treasurer at verizon.net
Tue Oct 15 19:18:01 UTC 2013


Hello!

Some of the schools do haved you practice the Leave it command. However,
part of the scaviging problem is that the dog can see there's food before
we're aware of it; that is, the only way we know there's food is when the
dog goes for it. 

Toni

-----Original Message-----
From: nagdu [mailto:nagdu-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of Raven Tolliver
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2013 11:56 AM
To: NAGDU Mailing List, the National Association of Guide Dog Users
Subject: Re: [nagdu] Scavenging and Sniffing

I think I've said this awhile ago on this list or another, but I really
think schools should incorporate the "leave it" cue into the obedience
routines. In my opinion, practicing "leave it" is just as important as
practicing the "sit-stay" and "down-stay."
There are two ways I will discuss that you can use to curb this behavior.
One of them involves using leash corrections, the other does not. I am all
about positive training methods, so I always use and highly recommend the
method without leash corrections, but I like to offer comprehensive advice
since every dog/handler team is not the same.
For the first method, choose an area with no distractions, preferably
somewhere in your home or wherever you live. Be sure to have your clicker in
hand, and treats nearby, or a toy if you don't use treats.
Start by holding food in your fist. Hold your fist out or down on the floor.
Your dog will of course sniff and paw at your hand. The moment your dog
stops, click and treat. Obviously, treat your dog with something other than
what is in your fist, preferably a high-value treat. Do this 3 to five
times, then start introducing the cue "leave it" as soon as your dog stops
going after the food in your fist. So the moment your dog ignores the food,
say "leave it," then give a food reward.
When your dog starts obeying the cue reliably, which would be about 8 or 9
times out of 10, progress to putting food on the floor or table and cover it
with your hand. Again, your dog will start sniffing and pawing at your hand,
so repeat the same process you used when the food was in your fist.
When your dog is reliably obeying the "leave it" cue in this situation,
progress to putting food on the ground five to seven feet in front of you
and your dog. The food can be people food such as peanuts or fruit or
whatever. Have your dog on a short leash, and start heeling your dog toward
the food. The moment your dog tries to go for it, stop moving toward the
food. When your dog stops trying to pull or go for the food, praise and
reward. Again, do this several times until the behavior is reliable. Now you
progress by simply moving the food closer and closer to your dog until you
can have the food right in front of your dog, in their line of sight, and
they don't go for it, or quickly obey the "leave it" cue if they do.
If at any time, your dog is not obeying the "leave it" cue reliably or will
not ignore the food for an offered treat or toy, go back to the previous
step.
If you use a toy during your training  sessions rather than food, allow the
dog to play with the toy for a bit. Then resume training.
Take this practice to a different room, then to the back or front yard,
practice it when your out at the park, or at a restaurant.
This might seem like a lot, and it might take a long time depending on the
dog, but it will work if you stay on top of it and are consistent.
This positive method is all about allowing your dog to make a choice, and
teaching them that obeying you is the right choice and that good things will
come when they do obey you. This should not involve any pressure or
frustration toward your dog. If it starts feeling frustrating, then it is
time to stop. Your dog will pick up on the frustration, and you don't want
frustration associated with the "leave it" cue. You want your dog to
associate it with positive things such as praise, play, or treats.
The more punishment-oriented solution is to do these same practice sessions,
except you give a leash correction if the dog goes for food.
A leash correction has to be delivered as soon as the dog initiates the
behavior, not after the behavior has been done. Correcting with the leash
for going after food will create a negative association with this behavior,
and it may or may not extinct the behavior. Some dogs need a harsher
punishment than others.
I train dogs using the positive method, so I know that it works from
personal experience. If anything was confusing, feel free to ask questions.
This is such a routine thing for me that it was really hard to sit here and
break it down into written steps.


On 10/9/13, Larry D. Keeler <lkeeler at comcast.net> wrote:
> Keepping on correcting! All dogs are somewhat nosy! If lots of dogs 
> frequent
>
> the area you might have a tough time! You can also call Leader for 
> other ideas!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alyssa" <alyssahenson95 at gmail.com>
> To: <nagdu at nfbnet.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2013 9:58 AM
> Subject: [nagdu] Scavenging and Sniffing
>
>
>> Hello all! I got my dog Sophie from Leader Dogs in July. She is my 
>> first dog and I'm having problems with her nose always being on the 
>> ground. She
>>
>> does great work, but if she sees something on the ground, she dives 
>> for it
>>
>> and won't listen to me even with leash corrections until they've been 
>> done
>>
>> at least 3 times. Is this normal for a new dog? Is there something I 
>> should do differently?
>> Thanks
>> Alyssa and Sophie
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> _______________________________________________
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--
Raven

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