[nagdu] preparing for my first guide dog

[Buddy Brannan]

Hi,

Comments below—

On Jun 24, 2014, at 8:37 AM, Raven Tolliver via nagdu <nagdu at nfbnet.org> wrote:

> I have 2 years under my belt of working my 1st guide dog, a golden
> male from GEB. The Golden guy inspired me to enter the field of dog
> training, and for just over a year, I have trained dogs using positive
> reinforcement. So I definitely don't have as much experience with
> guide dogs as others do, but in a relatively short time , I have
> gained a great deal of experience training and caring for dogs of
> various breeds, temperaments, backgrounds, and life stages.
> The Golden Guy is my first dog ever as well, so I was where you are
> now when I applied to get my guide dog. Before I got him, I was not a
> dog person. I didn't dislike dogs, but I wasn't ga-ga about them
> either. And now I work with them; tell me how that happened!
> As someone who considered my cane a body part, you can imagine the
> transition from cane to dog was incredibly difficult and stressful for
> me. I struggled to recognize and learn my dog's body language. It took
> so much time to learn to properly communicate with my dog. I struggled
> to figure out alternative ways to receive feedback or tactile
> information from my environment.  It took roughly 6 months before I
> could completely trust my dog. I blame it on the fact that most guide
> dog instructors have no background in orientation and mobility
> training, or at least most of the ones I have encountered don’t.

Buddy says:
While it’s true that many guide dog instructors don’t necessarily have a traditional O&M background, taken in sum with some of your later points as regards research and experts in whatever particular field, this doesn’t really bother me too much. What they lack in the academic learning is made up in large part with practical experience, a thing which I believe is quite valuable. A guide dog instructor’s apprenticeship consists of work, not only with dogs, but also with humans. They not only work dogs in training under blindfold (as instructors as well as during apprenticeship), but in many schools, if not all of them, experience at least part of class, including getting matched with a dog, under blindfold. This is the kind of experience you just can’t get out of a book, and while it certainly doesn’t replace the experience of being blind, nothing can after all, I think it does help.  

Is O&M education valuable? Absolutely. any training one can get has value. However, not having it isn’t necessarily a detriment. 

Of course, not all instructors are created equal. There’s the know-it-all ones who just finished qualifying and have all the answers, and you long-time guide dog handlers can’t possibly have any valuable input, because after all, I am the professional. Let’s not pretend that there aren’t such people, because there are. Thankfully, most grow out of that. There are those who have been in a long time and know more than you or I or most trainers have forgotten. Some of those are ready and eager for new ideas. Some are very set in their ways. Makes ‘em human, I guess. 

Anyway, you continue:

> What would have helped me tremendously was a description and/or a
> demonstration of what different movements feel like through the
> harness. What does it feel like when my dog is pulling left? What does
> it feel like when my dog is pushing me to the right? What does
> obstacle avoidance feel like? What does it feel like when my dog is
> distracted? Really basic things like that would have helped me. There
> were so many times when I thought my dog was distracted when he was
> just doing his job. There were too many times where I second-guessed
> him, and didn't have a clue how I could check his work. I taught my
> dog a lot of landmarks in the beginning just so I could check his work
> and make sure he was staying on route.

Buddy comments:
Unfortunately, these things, while helpful, are probably not very easy to teach in any very meaningful way. That six-month adjustment is not uncommon, not even on your second or subsequent dog. You can’t teach that sort of thing because every dog is different, every dog works differently, every dog has his own style and way of approaching his work. My first dog would work an obstacle from half a block away. His work was often so smooth I didn’t know he was taking me around anything. Likewise, if he saw a squirrel, I knew it. My second dog, on the other hand, was very dramatic. He’d run (yes, he was fast!) right up to an obstacle, and zip around it at the last possible second. This practice nearly gave some sighted walking companions of mine heart attacks. I can’t imagine two dogs with more different working styles. In the examples of things you would find helpful, all of those are so individual that the only way to learn them is to learn them with each individual dog. When you get your second and third and fourth dog, you’re going to learn them all over again. No way around it, and there aren’t any shortcuts.

You continue:
> When the heavy snow hit here, I was forced to trust the Golden Guy.
> And what solidified r working partnership the most was construction
> season. There is probably not a more trying circumstance for a team
> than having to work through a city under construction on an almost
> daily basis for an entire summer. We encountered construction cones,
> blocked off sidewalks, missing sidewalks, and streets that were half
> gone. Nothing solidifies your trust in your dog like a moment when
> you're crossing the street, your dog stops, and you put your foot out
> in front of you, only to find there's absolutely nothing there. Time
> to turn around!

Buddy comments: 
I’d say snow-covered winters are at least as challenging. Again, the only way to learn to trust your dog is to learn to trust your dog. It’s always the hardest thing for me, three dogs later. I have to learn to trust each one all over again. I want to be in charge darn it, and each time, I have to learn that, yes, I can give up some measure of control to my dog. If, at this point, you don’t still sometimes second-guess your dog’s judgment, you’re a much better handler than I. Three dogs later, and I still get it wrong sometimes, though I like to tell myself, more often I get it right.

You continue:

> Here are the things I wish I would have known before I got a guide dog.
> 1. Leash corrections are useless 99% of the time that you want to or
> are instructed to use them. Leash corrections only tell a dog that
> he's done something wrong, it doesn't tell him what he's supposed to
> do. Just imagine you're in a typing class, and you are instructed to
> put your hands on the home row. By mistake, you place your fingers on
> the row just above it, and as a result, your teacher slaps you across
> the hands with a yard stick. Now, don't you think that could be
> handled better? Don't you think it would be more productive for the
> teacher to simply show you which row is the correct one, and allow you
> to try again? Apply this thought process when it comes to dulling out
> the leash corrections. When your dog does something wrong or
> inappropriate, do not default to the leash correction. Instead, show
> him what you want him to do, and make it rewarding for him.
Buddy comments:
I’m sorry you came away with this view on how the training that our dogs experience works. Most training methods have value. By “most”, I really mean “All of them that are needlessly or gratuitously cruel”. While you are correct that a correction is useless if your dog doesn’t understand it, that’s where your correctness ends. Absolutely a leash correction shouldn’t be your go to move. I believe many of our trainers refer to a “ladder of correction”. That means you don’t bust out a canon to swat a fly. That means that when your dog runs you into a tree branch, you stop, show him where he erred, and allowing him the opportunity to do it again correctly. This might involve a correction, that is, letting your dog know that he made a mistake, but then an equal amount of praise or reward for doing it correctly. It is correct that a “correction” is of no value without feedback for why a correction was needed in the first place, along with an opportunity to make things right. 

I certainly part company with you in your apparent view that there is no value in correction. A correction is like telling your child, “No, you can’t have candy before dinner”, or “Since you were told that this behavior is not acceptable and chose to engage in it anyway, you can’t watch TV for a week”. Of course, it’s not exactly the same, because dogs aren’t children, but there’s absolutely nothing wrong in telling your dog what behavior is not acceptable. Of course, they should know what *is* expected of them as well, and of course it isn’t fair to correct for something that the dog doesn’t know is wrong. However, that doesn’t mean that corrections are valueless. 

> 2. Question and research everything the so-called professionals say.
> It doesn't matter what degrees, certification, or experience a person
> has, that does not mean they know everything, or that what they know
> is right, or right for you. For the love of everything dog, please do
> not do what you're told just because someone of authority advised it.
> I did that when I got my dog, and I now deeply regret it. Research
> everything you put in and on your animal, and definitely research
> training techniques and troubleshooting with dog training. Some people
> will say this is overkill or too much work. In my opinion, when you
> are responsible for the health and condition of a living being, and
> you also have a bond to build with a creature, all the work and
> research that you put into how to care for and work with your animal
> can only help.
> Some people believe that the staff at the schools are experts, and
> that they will tell you everything you need to know. The former is
> only true depending on standard of measurement, and the ladder is
> impossible. I have had very lengthy electronic arguments with these
> so-called experts, primarily those in veterinary and training
> departments. There are definitely things I was taught at school that I
> have unlearned and no longer believe to be true or right.
> I also feel that there was so much about dogs and dog training that
> the school did not teach me. I'm not saying they left stuff out on
> purpose, they obviously can't teach you everything, which is why
> research is imperative.

Buddy comments:
Research is absolutely important, and everyone should do his best to educate himself. However, this also means that sometimes, the “experts” really are right. Years of boots on the ground experience, along with whatever academic credentials someone has, surely accounts for something, and many of these folks really do have that kind of experience. I would agree that it’s probably not a great idea to blindly and unquestioningly follow *any* “expert”. However, it’s equally important to take into account experience and knowledge that other people have that you yourself may not, or may have incompletely. “Because I said so” is never a good enough reason. Sometimes, it has to be good enough for now, such as situations where you’re out walking with a new dog and your instructor gives you a directive. In cases like that where safety is on the line and instant action is required, you must act instantly. You can ask about it later, discuss it later, and work out the why and wherefore of it later. 

> 3. Go to clickertraining.com, and read everything you can. There is
> not enough time spent on clicker training in guide dog school, and
> your clicker is quite a versatile tool when it comes to teaching and
> fixing behaviors.

Buddy comments:
I’d take it a step further. Read everything you can, period. Clicker training has benefits, there’s no denying that. However, it isn’t the only way, nor is it always the best way in every situation. Take a nice well-rounded approach to your education and learn from everyone you possibly can. 

> 4. Do not ever go to the veterinarian for something as simple as an
> outer ear infection; there are a great deal of home remedies. A 50/50
> mix of apple cider vinegar and water, cold-pressed coconut oil, Young
> Living's lavender essential oil, and Zymox without hydrocortozone are
> just a few remedies that you can use independent of each other. The
> oils also work on hot spots.

Buddy comments:
While there are certainly things you can take care of yourself, when in doubt, don’t hesitate to contact a professional. That’s why they’re here. Be sure it’s one you trust. If you don’t feel right about the vet you have, and I don’t care what kind of discount he gives, go somewhere else. 
> 
Raven concludes:
> Other than that, you are about to embark on one of the most exciting
> and frustrating journeys. Nothing is more exhilarating than smoothly
> navigating the world with a guide dog, and nothing is more frustrating
> than when you're in a time crunch or in front of a bunch of people,
> and your dog does something inappropriate or will not listen to you.
> It is easy to fall in love with these creatures, but it can be so hard
> to learn to trust them. Give yourself time, and have an abundance of
> patience for both your dog and yourself.
> I hope this helps you in your transition, and wish you success in
> training with your partner.
Buddy concludes:
I couldn’t agree more with this. I’ve enjoyed the company of three guides over the past (Gasp) 18 years. Every time I retire, well both times, I’ve questioned whether I’d do it again. And I have, every time. There are problems with working a guide dog, no two ways about that. There are problems with everything. But to my way of thinking, the benefits far outweigh any shortfalls. Hang on, because you’re in for a wild ride. It won’t always be easy. It won’t always be fun. You’ll experience the greatest joy and the deepest heartache. But if you’re anything like me, you’ll come back again for more, because sharing our lives with these guys really is that rewarding.


—Buddy