[Nfb-krafters-korner] blocking

[Becky Frankeberger]

Blocking Hints & Tips
By: Barbara Breiter
Blocking is the process of using water or steam  to help you shape your knit
or crochet
project to its final size and shape; it also can help even up stitch tension
and
edges. For some projects, blocking will make a big difference. For instance,
lace
patterns almost always need blocking as it opens up the pattern. Don't think
of blocking
as a miracle-tool--it won't make your too small sweater 3 sizes larger--but
it can
work wonders in making your project more finished looking.
First, blocking involves a few "don'ts." Check your yarn label for care
instructions.
Don't block yarns labeled "dry clean only." Don't ever iron your project in
an attempt
to block; you will wind up with a flat, limp, lifeless mess. An iron should
only
be used to steam a project (more on that below). Acrylic yarn, or yarn that
has a
high acrylic content, does not usually block well. The best way to block
acrylic
is to throw your project in the washer and dryer, following label
directions, which
will help even out tension.
If you are blocking a sweater or other garment that needs to be sewn,
whether to
block it before or after you have seamed it together is entirely up to you.
Some
people find that the pieces will lay flatter and be easier to sew if blocked
before
seaming, but others may find that it's only after seaming it that they
decide it
needs a little extra help.
Spray blocking
For spray blocking (a method that's good for items that only need a light
blocking),
you'll need a spray bottle with water, rust-proof pins (T-pins available at
craft
or fabric stores are good for this job, and a surface on which to block. If
the piece
is small, you can fold one or two towels in half and lay them on top of one
another
so it's thick enough to hold the pins. Blocking boards are also sold for
this purpose;
these are handy as they come with measurements and straight lines printed on
the
board. Some people make their own blocking boards by wrapping fabric around
foam
boards to create a smooth surface to pin into.
To spray block, lay out the item, spray with water, and get out your
measuring tape.
Follow the measurements of the pattern's schematic using your tape. Or if
it's a
scarf, be sure it measures the same width throughout. Gently pull the piece
so that
the measurements are what they should be. Even up the seams. Push ribbing in
with
your fingers. Work one area at a time, spraying and pinning and making sure
things
are straight. Pin in place using rust proof pins. The piece should be
completely
dry before removing the pins.
Wet blocking
To block a project that needs a little extra help, wet block the item. Wash
the item
according to the care instructions (or simply submerge fullly in water and
gently
ring out) and then follow the above procedure.
Steam blocking
If your project needs severe blocking, you can try steaming. But be gentle.
Steaming
means just that.it doesn't mean ironing! Lay out and pin your project to the
correct
measurements. If you're using a steam iron, hold the iron about 10 inches
above the
piece until it's damp. You can also lay a wet cloth over the piece and hold
the iron
above the cloth, but again, do not press down or iron it. If you have a
steamer,
you can hang the piece (or lay it out) and steam it until damp and then lay
it out,
measure it, and pin it. Leave it in place until completely dry.
Note that with steam blocking, it's always a good idea to test this first on
a swatch.
Practice makes perfect! Do not steam ribbing, garter stitch, cables or other
very
textured stitches, as you will end up flattening them. Steam may also damage
your
acrylics, as they are sensitive to heat.
Finally, keep in mind that while blocking is not always
necessary--especially if
you are more experienced and knit with an even tension throughout--washing
your project
according to the yarn's care instructions should always be part of your
finishing.
You'll be surprised at the amount of dirt and oil the yarn has picked up
from your
hands.