[Nfb-krafters-korner] blocking

[AUDREY WELLNER]

Henrietta, 
   This article is copywritten material taken directly from Lion Brand's Monthly Newsletter, 
written by Barbara Breiter that I just read.  If you'd like to subscribe and receive the 
information first hand the site is available at. They offer lots of helpful hints.
postmaster at newsletter.lionbrand.com
 
OR:
 
http://www.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/pg.fcgi?
page=addToStoreMailingList.html&utm_source=20110311_March11&utm_medium=Emails&utm_campaign=Weeklynewsletter&utm_content=Subscribe
 
Audrey J. Wellner, Secretary
NFB Krafters Korner division

--- On Fri, 3/11/11, Henrietta Brewer <gary.brewer at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Henrietta Brewer <gary.brewer at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] blocking
To: "List for blind crafters and artists" <nfb-krafters-korner at nfbnet.org>
Date: Friday, March 11, 2011, 7:04 PM


Thanks so much. I am making a prayer shall for church and wanted to wash it before taking it in. but I thought it might look used that way.
Henrietta
On Mar 11, 2011, at 6:38 PM, Becky Frankeberger wrote:

> Blocking Hints & Tips
> By: Barbara Breiter
> Blocking is the process of using water or steam  to help you shape your knit
> or crochet
> project to its final size and shape; it also can help even up stitch tension
> and
> edges. For some projects, blocking will make a big difference. For instance,
> lace
> patterns almost always need blocking as it opens up the pattern. Don't think
> of blocking
> as a miracle-tool--it won't make your too small sweater 3 sizes larger--but
> it can
> work wonders in making your project more finished looking.
> First, blocking involves a few "don'ts." Check your yarn label for care
> instructions.
> Don't block yarns labeled "dry clean only." Don't ever iron your project in
> an attempt
> to block; you will wind up with a flat, limp, lifeless mess. An iron should
> only
> be used to steam a project (more on that below). Acrylic yarn, or yarn that
> has a
> high acrylic content, does not usually block well. The best way to block
> acrylic
> is to throw your project in the washer and dryer, following label
> directions, which
> will help even out tension.
> If you are blocking a sweater or other garment that needs to be sewn,
> whether to
> block it before or after you have seamed it together is entirely up to you.
> Some
> people find that the pieces will lay flatter and be easier to sew if blocked
> before
> seaming, but others may find that it's only after seaming it that they
> decide it
> needs a little extra help.
> Spray blocking
> For spray blocking (a method that's good for items that only need a light
> blocking),
> you'll need a spray bottle with water, rust-proof pins (T-pins available at
> craft
> or fabric stores are good for this job, and a surface on which to block. If
> the piece
> is small, you can fold one or two towels in half and lay them on top of one
> another
> so it's thick enough to hold the pins. Blocking boards are also sold for
> this purpose;
> these are handy as they come with measurements and straight lines printed on
> the
> board. Some people make their own blocking boards by wrapping fabric around
> foam
> boards to create a smooth surface to pin into.
> To spray block, lay out the item, spray with water, and get out your
> measuring tape.
> Follow the measurements of the pattern's schematic using your tape. Or if
> it's a
> scarf, be sure it measures the same width throughout. Gently pull the piece
> so that
> the measurements are what they should be. Even up the seams. Push ribbing in
> with
> your fingers. Work one area at a time, spraying and pinning and making sure
> things
> are straight. Pin in place using rust proof pins. The piece should be
> completely
> dry before removing the pins.
> Wet blocking
> To block a project that needs a little extra help, wet block the item. Wash
> the item
> according to the care instructions (or simply submerge fullly in water and
> gently
> ring out) and then follow the above procedure.
> Steam blocking
> If your project needs severe blocking, you can try steaming. But be gentle.
> Steaming
> means just that.it doesn't mean ironing! Lay out and pin your project to the
> correct
> measurements. If you're using a steam iron, hold the iron about 10 inches
> above the
> piece until it's damp. You can also lay a wet cloth over the piece and hold
> the iron
> above the cloth, but again, do not press down or iron it. If you have a
> steamer,
> you can hang the piece (or lay it out) and steam it until damp and then lay
> it out,
> measure it, and pin it. Leave it in place until completely dry.
> Note that with steam blocking, it's always a good idea to test this first on
> a swatch.
> Practice makes perfect! Do not steam ribbing, garter stitch, cables or other
> very
> textured stitches, as you will end up flattening them. Steam may also damage
> your
> acrylics, as they are sensitive to heat.
> Finally, keep in mind that while blocking is not always
> necessary--especially if
> you are more experienced and knit with an even tension throughout--washing
> your project
> according to the yarn's care instructions should always be part of your
> finishing.
> You'll be surprised at the amount of dirt and oil the yarn has picked up
> from your
> hands.
> 
> 
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