[Nfb-krafters-korner] blocking

[slerythema]

I actually leave the ends of that I weave in uncut until after the item has
been washed. This lets the garment stretch and move enough so that I am not
cutting the ends too short but still able to cut them very close.

Cindy S.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org 
> [mailto:nfb-krafters-korner-bounces at nfbnet.org] On Behalf Of 
> Henrietta Brewer
> Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 7:05 PM
> To: List for blind crafters and artists
> Subject: Re: [Nfb-krafters-korner] blocking
> 
> 
> Thanks so much. I am making a prayer shall for church and 
> wanted to wash it before taking it in. but I thought it might 
> look used that way. Henrietta On Mar 11, 2011, at 6:38 PM, 
> Becky Frankeberger wrote:
> 
> > Blocking Hints & Tips
> > By: Barbara Breiter
> > Blocking is the process of using water or steam  to help you shape 
> > your knit or crochet project to its final size and shape; 
> it also can 
> > help even up stitch tension and
> > edges. For some projects, blocking will make a big 
> difference. For instance,
> > lace
> > patterns almost always need blocking as it opens up the 
> pattern. Don't think
> > of blocking
> > as a miracle-tool--it won't make your too small sweater 3 
> sizes larger--but
> > it can
> > work wonders in making your project more finished looking.
> > First, blocking involves a few "don'ts." Check your yarn 
> label for care
> > instructions.
> > Don't block yarns labeled "dry clean only." Don't ever iron 
> your project in
> > an attempt
> > to block; you will wind up with a flat, limp, lifeless 
> mess. An iron should
> > only
> > be used to steam a project (more on that below). Acrylic 
> yarn, or yarn that
> > has a
> > high acrylic content, does not usually block well. The best 
> way to block
> > acrylic
> > is to throw your project in the washer and dryer, following label
> > directions, which
> > will help even out tension.
> > If you are blocking a sweater or other garment that needs 
> to be sewn,
> > whether to
> > block it before or after you have seamed it together is 
> entirely up to you.
> > Some
> > people find that the pieces will lay flatter and be easier 
> to sew if blocked
> > before
> > seaming, but others may find that it's only after seaming 
> it that they
> > decide it
> > needs a little extra help.
> > Spray blocking
> > For spray blocking (a method that's good for items that 
> only need a light
> > blocking),
> > you'll need a spray bottle with water, rust-proof pins 
> (T-pins available at
> > craft
> > or fabric stores are good for this job, and a surface on 
> which to block. If
> > the piece
> > is small, you can fold one or two towels in half and lay 
> them on top of one
> > another
> > so it's thick enough to hold the pins. Blocking boards are 
> also sold for
> > this purpose;
> > these are handy as they come with measurements and straight 
> lines printed on
> > the
> > board. Some people make their own blocking boards by 
> wrapping fabric around
> > foam
> > boards to create a smooth surface to pin into.
> > To spray block, lay out the item, spray with water, and get out your
> > measuring tape.
> > Follow the measurements of the pattern's schematic using 
> your tape. Or if
> > it's a
> > scarf, be sure it measures the same width throughout. 
> Gently pull the piece
> > so that
> > the measurements are what they should be. Even up the 
> seams. Push ribbing in
> > with
> > your fingers. Work one area at a time, spraying and pinning 
> and making sure
> > things
> > are straight. Pin in place using rust proof pins. The piece 
> should be
> > completely
> > dry before removing the pins.
> > Wet blocking
> > To block a project that needs a little extra help, wet 
> block the item. Wash
> > the item
> > according to the care instructions (or simply submerge 
> fullly in water and
> > gently
> > ring out) and then follow the above procedure.
> > Steam blocking
> > If your project needs severe blocking, you can try 
> steaming. But be gentle.
> > Steaming
> > means just that.it doesn't mean ironing! Lay out and pin 
> your project to the
> > correct
> > measurements. If you're using a steam iron, hold the iron 
> about 10 inches
> > above the
> > piece until it's damp. You can also lay a wet cloth over 
> the piece and hold
> > the iron
> > above the cloth, but again, do not press down or iron it. 
> If you have a
> > steamer,
> > you can hang the piece (or lay it out) and steam it until 
> damp and then lay
> > it out,
> > measure it, and pin it. Leave it in place until completely dry.
> > Note that with steam blocking, it's always a good idea to 
> test this first on
> > a swatch.
> > Practice makes perfect! Do not steam ribbing, garter 
> stitch, cables or other
> > very
> > textured stitches, as you will end up flattening them. 
> Steam may also damage
> > your
> > acrylics, as they are sensitive to heat.
> > Finally, keep in mind that while blocking is not always
> > necessary--especially if
> > you are more experienced and knit with an even tension 
> throughout--washing
> > your project
> > according to the yarn's care instructions should always be 
> part of your
> > finishing.
> > You'll be surprised at the amount of dirt and oil the yarn 
> has picked up
> > from your
> > hands.
> > 
> > 
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